Spanish Modernisme Art Nouveau jewelry.
#7456 Original Masriera pendant.
One of the marvels of selling antique jewelry is that there is always a lot more to learn.
We get a general picture and think we've got 'that covered', but then we discover new realms, that were always right there, unrecognised, until now.
The truth is that in general, we focus on the main jewelry producers of the Georgian period onwards, but we forget that every country, county and sub-region had its own customs, techniques, and aesthetics. Thus, Castellani rediscovered the wonderful work of the Ancient Etruscans and Europe in general got agog with various Revivals. At the same time as Paris was producing superb sophisticated jewels, the French Provincials were making something very different. What about Hungary, Russia and America? Every place and era brought changes, new fashions and styles. Our little brains probably can't cope with so many factors. Ok, I'll speak for myself regarding little brains.
I've known about and sold many jewels from the Iberian Peninsula. During the 18th century, much of the 'best' jewelry was made in Spain and Portugal who had conquered and exploited the mining wealth of Latin America. My interest in Spain petered out after this point, not out of disinterest, but out of sheer ignorance. There is so much to know, but I've begun learning.
Recently, I paid a short visit to Barcelona. I could write a good long essay on that experience. So much touring to do; so much history to absorb and most intrigueing, so much culture and art. Books galore have been written on Anthony Gaudy, the architect so famous that a word has been named after him. When we see something highly decorative, we might disparagingly call it 'gaudy'. Gaudy was not the only one who loved so much detail. There are many stunning buildings in Barcelona with botanical reliefs, rich ironwork, woodwork and extra accents right up to towers, turrets and spires. It seems that this penchance for rich adornment is infused in the Catalan culture and reflected in the jewelry of the age and place.
I see a strong connection between the richness of Barcelona's architecture and the jewelry made during the same period of time - the Art Nouveau era circa 1895 - 1915.
Gaudi architecture: Casa Batllo in Barcelona.
In Barcelona, Art Nouveau is known as "Modernisme". It is very much Art Nouveau in style, but bears a strong influence of the land of its origin and the Catalan people.
Two Barcelona jewellers of the late 19th and early 20th century are international standouts. Lluis Masriera and Fuset y Grau.
By far the most important and influential jeweller of the Art Nouveau period was Lluis Masriera. He was born into a family that was already well-established in the jewelry and arts world of Barcelona. Doyens of the arts in general and jewellers in particular. Like many others, Lluis was educated by the family as well as Geneva, London and Paris for further skills. Reaching Paris at the age of 18, he was exposed to the work of Rene Lalique himself.
Famously, Lluis returned home to Barcelona where he melted the entire inventory of the company. It took him 6 months to produce new jewelry in the Art Nouveau style that he had discovered in Paris. It took one week for the entire stock to be sold out. Today, Lluis Masriera is considered right up there, very close if not equal to Rene Lalique in the pantheon of great Art Nouveau jewellers.
Like Lalique, Masriera did not limit his interests to jewelry, but was very actively involved in the arts and cultural world of his city, notably drama and the theatre. He supported the latter and was responsible for much of the artwork and sets.
Masriera jewelry epitomises the Art Nouveau movement; elegant, langurous, women with long flowing hair, botanical themes, various forms of enamel (including plique a jour and iridescent enamel), fabulous quality from design to execution.
At the time, the firm was called Masriera Hermanos. It later merged with Carreras and is still in existance to this day. The same Art Nouveau jewelry, reproduced from that made by Lluis Masriera is still being made over 100 years later. Do distinguish between work made during the Nouveau era (and with the appropriate Masriera H hallmark) and that made later. They are not quite equal in quality, originality or value.
Masriera designed brooch: (sold).
# 7459 Fuset y Grau pendant.
Less known outside of Spain, is the company called Fuset y Grau.
Fuset y Grau is perhas more tied to specifically Catalan culture and more local. There is a strong religious influence in many of their jewels, much of it representative of Madonnas and other religious subjects. Not all - some is more secular; much with a Renaissance Revival influence.
Most importantly, Fuset y Grau represented the Art Nouveau movement in Spain, which was known as "Modernisme" in that area.
Once you have seen a few Art Nouveau pieces made by Fuset y Grau, you will immediately recognise their work in this style. This is not the only style they worked in - I have owned a few pairs of classic diamond and pearl earrings in the fine Art Deco style made by Fuset y Grau. However, it's their Art Nouveau jewelry that makes their work unique.
Beautifully carved cameos, often in ivory with a background of plique a jour toroiseshell, lightly enamelled in colorful washes and highlighted with delicately placed gemstones - perhaps tiny rosecut diamonds or larger amethysts, sapphires, emeralds, pearls.
There is a preponderance of pendants, brooches and bracelets from this period. I've rarely seen earrings and can't remember seeing a ring at all.
A quick search on Fuset y Grau images on the internet reflects their consistantly beautiful designs and workmanship. A sadly under-recognised company whose pieces deserve a lot more recognition.
#7465 Later Art Deco Fuset y Grau earrings in original box.
For those with more serious knowledge about Spanish jewelry and Modernisme in particular, please contact us with corrections and further information.
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