It's a minefield out there. You can't be too careful.

My friend, Ed, claims that he can tell immediately when a piece of antique jewelry is 'right' or not. When pressed, he has no idea how he does it. "50 years in the business" is about as close as he gets to an explanation. 

There are a lot of questions regarding fakes, including how do you tell and why are they made? What constitutes a fake? Mmmm?

If the foremost criterion for fake is the intention to fool, what about these scenarios:

Once, I bought a fabulous piece of antique Faberge. Everything looked right when I looked at the signature. Then I took photos.  What the naked eye would never see, the magnified photos revealed in an instant. Sloppy work. On a minute level to be sure, but definitely a red flag. I contacted the person who knows more about Faberge than anyone else I know, and within moments, the reply came: fake. The person who sold it to me claimed that it came from a prestigious retailer in London. I wasn't prepared to take the risk of selling a fake and returned it. Needless to say, the seller likely sold it to someone else who is probably very happy with her purchase.
Here's an antique Russian brooch with the 'right' markings.

 #5214.

What about a big-name antique jewelry ring with all the correct marks, but possibly enhanced by the addition of a few diamonds? How do we define that?
It started off 'right' and the previous owner, who surely paid a bomb for it, paid even more to add these stones. Now, what is the value? Can I sell it as the 'big-name' it started out as?  

#7287 An 18th century carving was incorporated in an Art Nouveau mount.  Done well over 100 years ago.

When someone does a little polishing is that okay? When they restore badly worn enamel on antiques is that okay? Do you prefer a Georgian ring with badly worn enamel or accurately restored to its original good looks? And, how do you know if jewelry has been added to or restored beyond a prudent level? 

#6441 These enormous earrings will never fit most women today. The added wires make them wearable, but they can be removed without impinging on the originals.                     

Most serious antique jewelry collectors I have met don't mind a gorgeous setting with a replaced stone or a gorgeous stone with a replaced setting. So, that seems to be ok.

When I don't know that change has been made and nobody else does, isn't that a little like the Tree falling in the woods? If nobody hears it fall, did it happen? 

Authenticity is one of the mysteries and marvels inherent in the antiques trade. One of the reasons we love it is the challenge of solving a puzzle.

The bottom line is: was the piece intended to fool the unwary buyer in order to procure a higher price? Sometimes, to the uneducated eye, the real and the fake look the same. Sometimes, even to the educated eye they look the same.

#6817 antique jewelry adapted for modern use.       

Some clues: correct hallmarks or lack thereof is a sign, but no proof of right/wrong.  Correct workmanship is a better clue. A great, respectable manufacturer will never have shoddy workmanship - front and back of the jewel. Is it too good to be true? If it's too good to be true, it ain't true. Look at every item with a questioning eye. Not to be nasty, but even highly respected sellers can make 'mistakes'. Educate yourself as much as possible.  At that point, you might be like Ed - you 'just know'. 

What it comes down to is how does the average person ensure that they are not being taken on an expensive ride? Find your Ed — someone who knows a lot, has a great eye and is honest and stands behind their merchandise. Don't try to be your own dealer. The market is full of people trying to avoid paying a little more to a proper dealer. You may circumvent the dealer's small commission, but then, can you answer your own questions? Are you sure that what you bought is correct? 

It’s far better to establish a relationship with a handful of dealers that you can trust and let them do the worrying and the detective work before the piece is ever offered to you. 

Questions and comments: Please email antiques@brendaginsberg.com
Find jewelry on www.brendaginsberg.com