#7473 superbly carved carnelian pin. 

Today, we are introducing glyptics - the art of carving cameos and intaglios and briefly describing their subject matter, origins and uses. It's the first of a series on the subject.

For thousands of years, cameos have been popular. The cameos made thousands of years ago are still available and sought after today. What are they? 

Actually, what we loosely call 'cameo' consists of two techniques: the cameo and the intaglio, known together as glyptics. Both are carved by fine craftsmen, usually from natural materials such as stones and shells. 
When material is carved away to leave the figures in relief, we call this cameo. These are like relief sculptures. 

When the figure is carved down into the material, we call this intaglio. It's like a pictorial engraving. When an intaglio is pressed into clay or wax, it leaves the reverse image. Think of the potato-carvings we did as children: dip the carved potato in paint and the mirror image is printed.

#6670  intaglio brooch.  

They are the reverse of each other and due to the difference in technique, their uses are often different. 
Many cameos use material that comes in layers. The upper layer is carved away to reveal both the lower layer and form a figural depiction. For example, a shell with creamy white outside/upper layer and pinky-brown underneath. An agate with a light upper layer and dark grey lower layer, used as the ground. The sculptor uses the different colors of the stone's strata to provide fine detail. Their might be only one layer of color and there might be many. The skill of the carver lies in revealing the different layers of the stone. The more layered, the more valuable. 

#7363 gold fob with snake and underside has carved stone intaglio of a family crest or coat of arms.                                   
While a cameo is purely decorative, an intaglio may be decorative, but it is also often used as a personal stamp, called a signet and thus the name 'signet ring' or as seals. Signet rings or seals, were used to signify that a document was authentic. It was the mark of power. It was the signature. Our ancestor Joseph wore the ring of Pharaoh - symbol of ultimate power.

 Since Classical times, a wide array of subjects were depicted in cameos, whether intaglio or relief. People and animals, hunting and mythological themes. Intaglios may be quite simple - merely depicting the monogram of the owner, or complex illustrations such as portraits. The Romans were very fond of such portraits.

#6714 Roman warrior in a Victorian Fede friendship ring.

For thousands of years, intaglio rings with family crests, monograms or personal symbols were carved in stone. #7179 Georgian ring. 

During the Georgian and early Victorian period, westerners became increasingly fascinated with Africa and the issue of slavery. While some consider the depiction of Africans as politically incorrect, I think it's important to remember the exploitation of that continent (amongst others) at the time.

#6669 noble face.  

Eastern cultures have often used gemstones to carve sections of the Koran or other magical words to bring luck or ward off evil. Many people in Iran or India daily wear jewels to ensure their good health and well being. Some of the most wonderful gemstones of the Mughal world were stolen or bought by Europeans and later, during the early 20th century, some of the great jewelry companies of the west bought gems from the East and mounted them in modern, Art Deco settings. They now command enormous prices, for carrying the prestige of these names, the marvel of the gems and the wonderful workmanship of their settings.

                                    #5294 intaglio cufflinks. 

Where are cameos carved? As we have seen, cameos and intaglios of exquisite quality were made by Ancient Greeks, Romans, Etruscans, Babylonians and Assyrians. Fabulous carvers have lived in France and Germany, but the country that consistently excels is of course Italy. During the Georgian and Victorian eras, many Italian cameos were brought to other countries such as France and England, where they were locally mounted and hallmarked. We will come back to some specific names in part 17c of this series.
Sometimes, original ancient cameos were incorporated in Georgian or Victorian jewelry. 

#7228 Jules Wiese brooch with Medusa cameo.

Cameos have been in fashion and more in fashion for thousands of years. Cameos are found in every variety of antique jewelry - necklaces, bracelets, rings, tiaras and brooches. We will try to show some examples over the course of this antique cameo series.

Next week, we will dive deeper into materials and variations. More to come.

Questions and comments: Please email antiques@brendaginsberg.com
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