#7584 turquoise snake bracelet. 

Since the days of the Garden of Eden, snakes have been deeply imbedded in our psyches. For many some people in so-called "western civilisations", snakes embody all that is evil and dangerous. However, many other people, especially in other societies, regard snakes as symbols of good luck, eternity and wisdom. In fact, tomes have been written about them and their myriad attributions and qualities. 
Many of us who are repelled by the slithering, creepy crawly in real life, appreciate, admire and seek after the same creature depicted in art, whether painting, sculpure and especially in jewelry. Snake jewelry is extremely desirable. Let's take a closer look. 

#7571 Etruscan Revival cameo earrings with snakes.  

Medusa, with snakes instead of hair, has featured in antique jewellery since the days of the Ancient Greeks. Throughout history, snakes were a popular theme in many cultures, but reached an apex in the West when Prince Albert gave Queen Victoria a snake ring as an engagment ring. This sparked off a rage in snake engagement rings, often with a birthstone in the center of it's head (Victoria's was an emerald). To the exquisitely civilised Albert, the snake represented eternal love. Among all of Victoria's renowned jewels, the whereabouts of this ring remain unknown. Does this add to the mystery and mystique of snake jewelry?  Everyone: keep a look-out for a gorgeous snake ring with an emerald set in the head. During the Victorian era, there was an explosion of jewelry made with snake themes.
Queen Alexandra, Victoria's daughter-in-law and King Edward's wife, was seldom seen without her serpent bracelet.  

#6695 Snake brooch.  

Oriental societies have often worshipped snakes, who are commonly represented in their jewelry. Whatever the sentiment behind the creature, whatever it's significance, you can choose to interpret snakes however you wish to do so. We love the mystique and beauty of form that these reptiles represent.
For many people, while the real creature may be repugnant, the snake in art and jewelry is a creature of great elegance and beauty. The sinulous, flexible coils lend their shape perfectly to jewels that wind around the wearer's limbs, fingers and necks. Jewelry has the power to metamorphosize the terrifying to the truly beautiful. 

#7550 snake necklace.

The king of metamorphic jewelry was of course, Rene Lalique, who made many fabulous jewels that included snakes. 

Snakes are often associated with infinity. There is a special form of snake, with its tail in its mouth, forming an unbroken ring and symbolising eternity. This image was used very often in jewelry and is known as an Ouroboros or Uroboros. 
Snakes were so commonly used in Georgian and Victorian jewelry, that often there was a short-hand of symbols without the full snake being represented. For example, many jewels had a 'scaly' surface - enough to depict the entire being for those who understood the meaning of the symbol. A snake-like chain without a head or tail terminal was still clearly a snake in the eyes of those who saw them during that period. We still call these 'snake chains' today. 

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In jewellery, we often look for designs that are elongated, swirling, coiling, perhaps asymmetrical, yet coming to full circle in the end. What better way to express all of these qualities than by a snake? The whiplash, elongated, curling forms of the Art Nouveau style clearly hint at these reptiles. Rene Lalique used snakes ubiquitously in his remarkable designs. The famous bracelet-ring designed for the great French actress Sarah Bernhardt by Alphonse Mucha and made by Fouquet has gone down in history and inspired many similar pieces.

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Sarah Bernhardt, the famous actress wore fabulous snake jewelry on stage and off. Her jewel that included bracelet and ring that wound around her entire wrist and hand is eternally iconic.
One of the most famous snake jewels is a necklace, ordered from Cartier by the great Mexican beauty and actress, Maria Felix. She didn't just want a snake. She wanted a big, realistic snake that looked fierce and about to strike. Ordered in 1968, it took 2 years to make. 57cm long, it includes 2473 diamonds and is fully articulated - meaning that it bends and twists like a real creature. The underside is enamelled in green white and red - the colors of the Mexican flag, symbolic of Maria's tremendous nationalism. 

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Snake jewellery comes in every form and shape and uses every material imaginable. Our antique pieces are usually gold, whether white or yellow, but often later examples of antique jewelery will be in platinum. This is our personal choice and in no way reflects a limitation on the subject.

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Questions and comments: Please email antiques@brendaginsberg.com
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