December is one of the months with two birthstones - topaz and citrines. This is not so surprising because some topaz might look like citrine or is it vice versa?
We spoke about topaz last year**. This year, it's citrine antique jewelry's turn. 

#6771 Giuliano citrine and sapphire cross pendant.

Citrine is a clear, yellow-to-orange variety of quartz prized for its warm, sunny hues and affordability, sometimes referred to as 'golden topaz'. 
The color of citrine ranges from so pale as to be almost transparent, through deep, dark yellows, like amber or sherry. 

The color of the gems are sometimes altered or improved.
Citrine may be foiled or set in a closed-back mount. This can not only deepen the shade of 'gold', but in some cases with colored foil, make the stones look pink or orange. Sometimes we see citrines that are yellow on the outer rims where the foil has shrunk, but pink where old foil remains.  This is mainly true in older antique jewelry. 
I have seen beautiful antique jewelry that I was sure was some sort of pinky topaz. Nope - I was informed - it's citrine. "But citrine is yellow" I argued.  Wrong! It was citrine.  Thus, I learned that we should always consider clever foiling when assessing the color of a gem. 

#7315 foiled antique citrine earrings. Colors yellow to orange.

Some citrines are heated to improve their color.

An advantage of citrine is that it doesn't often have inclusions. One of the 4 'c's that we need not worry about with this stone.
Another 'c' - the cut of most citrines is usually round or oval, but not exclusively so. 

#7452 Art Deco Cartier jabot pin.

Citrine is from the quartz family, which immediately tells you that it is affordable. Like its quartz sibling, amethyst, you get different qualities and the value will range accordingly.
Other members of the quartz family are, to be less polite - cheap.
During the 19th century, the growth of the middle and working classes and their new, vociferous buying power, led to a demand for more affordable jewelry. Citrines, therefore, became a popular choice in late Victorian jewelry. The philosophy of the Arts & Crafts and Art Nouveau movement was about the value of workmanship above the value of gems.  Again, citrine was a common choice in jewelry of these styles. 

#7487 fantastic Georgian jewelry set with Paste citrines.

Throughout the millennia, citrine has been set in jewelry. In some cultures it was believed to have healing and metaphysical powers.
Is it the golden color of citrine that has led to the belief that citrine attracts money and wealth? For this reason, some people call citrine "The merchant's stone". 
On the other hand, citrine is not supposed to be worn by people with anger management issues or people with gallstones. No explanation is provided for this single negative attribute in a gem that is generally considered to be highly beneficial. 

Citrine is found all over the world. Brazil has the most significant sources, but so do Africa and even the USA. Citrines found in Scotland are known as "Cairngorms". Queen Victoria set the trend for Scottish jewelry, kilt pins and brooches set with these stones. 

A curiosity in the quartz gem world called 'ametrine'. It is a naturally occurring gem from Bolivia, partially amethyst and partially citrine. It is popular in modern jewelry and is sometimes artificially created by heating amethyst.  Possibly the appeal of this gem is the contrast of yellow (citrine) and purple (amethyst). Yellow and purple are complementary colors, which means that they show each other off to best effect. Because ametrine is quite valuable, synthetics have been produced. 

#6853 a pair of brooches - one with citrine and one with its complement, amethyst.

Advice when buying citrine. 
A little inexplicably, there are imitation citrines out there. If the jewelry seems to be too cheap, if it's in a cheap mount, be suspicious.
Some stones are heated to improve their color. Look for the naturally bright and clear stones.
We mentioned synthetic ametrine or heated amethyst to look like citrine or ametrine.

Citrines are found in a mixed bag of antique jewelry. Much of it is merely costume with very little value. However, we should not dismiss all citrine jewelry. There are many, many items out there as beautifully made and crafted as the best of them. Citrine might just offer the opportunity to buy a really great piece at a more reasonable price. 
Remember: always go for what appeals to you personally.  

Looking for a gem to brighten up the cold, wintry days or to reflect the warmth of summer? Citrine is sunny and plentiful. It will not put a hole in your wallet. Enjoy!!

#7505 fabulous citrine bracelet

Questions and comments: Please email antiques@brendaginsberg.com
Find jewelry on www.brendaginsberg.com

** See posts on topaz 36a, 36b and 36c as well as post 250.