City slickers might not be familiar with the world of the sea and it's inhabitants, but it is a subject as widely popular as the oceans are vast. 

Over the last decade or so, I've seen fish-related antique jewelry go from curiosity to "I just can't find it fast enough". Someone is reeling 'em in. 

Always popular are fish pins. These speak for themselves as far as subject goes, but each one is a representative of a species and there are fishermen out there for every one of them. Enamelled gold, set with gems, the fish curving elegantly as it rises out of the water, sometimes with rod attached. Sometimes simply leaping up. 

#7435  fish stick pin with demantoid garnets. Very fine and versatile.

The Japanese were masters of the arts and crafts. Their artistic and cultural sensibility during the Meiji era (end of the 19th century) was considered unrivalled and even the French looked and learned. The Japanese actually took what they knew from the Chinese - mastered it and then made improvements. A beautiful pond of khoi (goldfish) was a work of art in itself. Sit and stare at the fish all day long. 

#6505   Coral fish

Other cultures saw fish as fertility symbols. Just look at the band of this man's ring from India: #5755

Literal depictions of fish are not the only way we can look for them in antique jewelry. 
Extremely popular, rare and highly sought after are 'poissarde earrings'. The name literally comes from the word 'fish' in French. These earrings were associated with the Fishwives or fish sellers in Paris. Remember, fish sellers were an important part of market economy.  Before Walmart, almost all food in cities was sourced from the local market.  Even the famous Meissen porcelain factory created a figurine of a fish seller.

 #1312 antique Meissen porcelain fish seller.

But back to antique jewelry. A half-hoop earring, supported at the back with an 's' curved wire reminiscent of fishing tackle was known as a poissarde earring. Supposedly, this style was worn by the fish sellers of France. They are usually from the French provinces and feature enamel work, enamel or glass gems, filigree. Really fancy poissarde earrings may be diamond set. Despite being Regional jewelry, most poissarde earrings are made of 18k gold. 
It is little known that these earrings were not restricted to the French. I have found them both in Italy and Spain and most likely, they were made in Britain as well. 

#3372 enamel and imitation gem poissarde earrings
#7036 very fine gold filigree poissarde earrings in original box.

During the middle ages and Renaissance era, fishing was a staple of the economy. A high percentage of the Mediterranean population earned a living from the sea. This amazing fishing boat from the Renaissance era, was de-accessioned from the Metropolitan Museum.

#7388  Rare Renaissance pendant in the form of a fishing boat. Amazing details. 

Related to this pendant are earrings in the general shape of a boat from another fishing community: Sicily. These earrings are known as "Navicella", which means boat. They are usually hung with pearls below - another clue to their maritime connection.  #7575

I can't resist sharing a couple of non-antique-jewelry fishy objects. One is a fish slice and one is a pair of servers with carved dolphins that is gorgeous beyond belief. They literally make your mouth water. 
#4309 fish server
#5022 dolphin servers

Sea-related themes like seaweed, octopuses, seals and penguins. Crossover to birds with gulls, ducks and other waterbirds, but they will be part of another post.  

#5744 miniature silver carousel with animals.
This is part of a series of blog posts all about animals in antique jewelry. Keep Reading.

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