#6132 Signed Gautrait bracelet.

What I don't do to find you interesting Antique French Jewelry !! 

I've just returned from another, brief trip to France, timed to coincide with max activity in the French antiques 
world and booked months ago. If only I'd known..

Last time I wrote about the hunt for fine French jewelry, I complained about how difficult it is to find good pieces. 
This time it was much worse. Punch-drunk with jetlag, I staggered around from pillar to post to every known resource. 
Paris, beautiful as ever, was dripping with rain. Sadly, not dripping with good jewels. I saw many, many pieces, but so 
leetle begged a second glance. When it did, there were usually problems like missing pearls and diamonds. Some sellers 
claim to have sent all of their good pieces to other sellers (who? where?), others simply don't have the kind of French
 jewelry that we are looking for. When an interesting piece comes up at auction, the price realized exceeds the high 
estimate by about 500% and that's before the astonishing 28% buyer's premium and taxes. As for earrings! Forget it.
 You'll sooner find ice in Hades than good earrings in Paris. 
 

The cliche about everyone's taste being different is no less relevant when we are speaking about different cultures 
rather than people. French women seek out some specifically French jewelry styles, not as familiar to jewelry enthusiasts 
in other countries. 

Poissarde earrings: associated with French fishwives, these incredible, large and delicate earrings were made from about 
the time of the First Empire until the end of the 19th century. Commonly made in the provinces (not Paris). They are 
distinguished by the large S-shaped wire at the back of a curving part-hoop. It's this wire that reminds the French of a 
fish hook. The front of this French jewelry is often enameled and usually sports delicate pierced openwork. 
They are often set with paste, which doesn't bother the French at all.  While usually light weight, they are big and 
noticeable and very, very attractive. In France, they command huge prices. 

Poissarde earrings #3372

Another kind of French jewelry that is special to this culture, is the dormeuse earring. Not that similar earrings don't
 exist in other countries, but the French have a special word for them. It means 'sleeper' and the idea is that they 
are so comfortable, that you never need remove them. Naturally, you could sleep in them too.  
Even put a small pair in your baby's ears. These earrings are characterized by a small diamond (or other gem) on the lobe and a drop with 
another diamond. Sometimes, there is more than one drop. Diamonds are usually rose cuts. Sometimes, there is only one gem. Small findings, close to the lobe. Simple, yet secure to wear while you sleep, shower or go to the beach.

                            Dormeuse earrings #7191

Long gold chains are a mainstay of the smart, chic, elegant woman. In short, French ladies and ladies with great 
fashion sense in the rest of the world. Versatile, they can be wound round the neck a number of times, worn close to the 
throat, or hanging in swags low down. You can even wind them around your wrist to make a very bold fashion 
statement. At once delicate and yet making a statement. Definitely finishing off any outfit. 
During the Art Nouveau era, the French made a characteristic long chain necklace. This took the form of alternating 
simple links and larger, filigree scrolling gold wire work links. While the patterns of the filigree scrolls might 
differ, the quality of the chains and their beauty does not.  Long necklaces are called 'sautoirs' in France.  I brought back two gorgeous examples from my recent trip 
to Paris. 

#6606

There are other examples of typically French jewelry such as 'en esclavage' drapery necklaces, typically French Retro rings and of course French Provincial jewels.  We will chat about them another time.