#6313

When pigmented glass is used as paint, you can be sure that the result will be stunning. Many connoisseurs are crazy about enameling, which is exactly that - pigmented glass. There are a number of techniques of enameling, but the ultimate standout, is plique a jour enamel jewelry.
  

Plique a jour enamel jewelry is often compared to miniature stained glass windows because enamel, in fact a form of glass, is held within metal wires or cells with no backing and is therefore translucent. The enamel is really stretched across thin air, between the walls of jeweled cells. 

#5657                                                                                 Buccellati dragonfly brooch.

Like Rene Lalique, Georges Lafitte was a great Art Nouveau jewelry master craftsman. 
While there are still artists employing this technique today, we usually associate plique a jour with the Art Nouveau era (1895-1910), that combined fantastic imagination with exquisite workmanship. 

Antique jewelry in all forms - earrings, rings, brooches, necklaces were made using the plique a jour technique, but because of it's extreme delicacy, we seldom find pieces other than brooches and pendants.  Besides antique jewelry, other 3-dimentional items, considered objects of vertu such as Russian teaspoons, Scandinavian salts, Chinese napkin rings and bowls can sometimes be found.  

#7456.   Masriera Art Nouveau pendant.

Few gems can match the combination of light and  color that are produced by plique a jour.  Plique a jour enamel jewelry is rare. Because of the difficulty in making plique a jour and the small chance of it's survival intact, we can usually expect to pay more for antique jewelry of this kind. The magical effect of the light shining through enamel is well worth it. 

Buying Plique a Jour Enamel Jewelry:
While rare and difficult to find, the hunt for plique a jour enamel jewelry is well worthwhile. The finest work, as always, was usually done in France. In Pforzheim Germany at the end of the 19th century, a number of factories copied French Art Nouveau and some lovely plique a jour work was done there. Usually set in silver, it is a fun alternative, significantly more affordable (but don't begin to hope for cheap).

In Spain there were two prominent jewelry makers with strong Art Nouveau influences.
Masriera was directly influenced by Rene Lalique. His descendants are still making wonderful jewelry in the Art Nouveau style, often incorporating plique a jour.
(see pendant above).
Fuset y Grau is less famous, but also made fabulous, unique and original Art Nouveau jewelry. Many of their pendants utilized a faux plique a jour technique. A cursory glance appears to be plique a jour, but on close inspection, we realize that other enameling techniques were used. 
#7459  Fuset Y Grau pendant.

Quite a lot of plique a jour jewelry was signed, an additional delight is knowing exactly who made the piece. Look for and learn to identify the maker's marks.  When you find a piece, take a moment to check that all cells are intact. Sadly, too often, there are whole bits missing. Minor chips or very small cracks are acceptable to me - after all, we must be a little forgiving of such a delicate jewel that has survived over 100 years.