#5614  Froment-Meurice signed bangle  

Antique French Bangles and Bracelets are a cut above the others and deserve a word of recognition. While beautiful antique bangles and bracelets from many other countries can be found, they rarely match the standards of their French counterparts. Some great jewelry came from England, but many of their best craftsmen were immigrants from France, Italy and other countries. Carl Faberge, one of the greatest names in luxury item production of all times, not only looked to France as his ideal and inspiration, but emphasized the French origin of his family with pride.  In France, jewelers were French and took an unprecedented pride in their work.

#6561 Silver and gold cuff bangle. 

Up to the end of the 19th century, there was a rigorous apprentice system in France. Young boys, sleeping on the floor in crowded work-rooms, paid a pittance, often hungry and overworked, began with menial tasks of sweeping the floor and running errands. Slowly, with talent and determination, they rose up in the ranks and learned the various skills necessary to make wonderful jewels - everything from design, lapidary work, enameling, setting, etc had to be mastered. Of course, being born to a wealthy family didn't hurt in your rise amongst the ranks. The end result of this system is that those who became masters could take justifiable pride in their accomplishments.  There are anecdotes indicating that to a French craftsman, pride of product took priority over financial benefit.

 

    #5354.  Napoleon Bonaparte bracelets.  

 

Arms are the most sensuous part of our bodies. All too often today we forget their allure. The Georgians and Victorians were not deluded and they worked those arms, dressing them in wonderfully seductive bangles and bracelets.  

Materials used in antique bangles and bracelets do not differ greatly across Europe, but we should note that in France: 1. gold is almost always 18k. Under 18carats was not considered gold in France. 2. Gold, like silver, in France, was always hallmarked. For hundreds of years, the French have been very strict about assaying their precious metals and when you buy a French antique, you are assured of its quality. The most recognizable mark for French gold of the 19c is the eagle head mark, often found on the tongue of the clasp of a bangle or bracelet. Not only must items be hallmarked, but the hallmarks must be clear and up-to-date. I've watched many a French auction.  When you buy at a French auction, the hammer might go down to you, but the item does not always reach your hands yet. Should the hallmarks be worn or incorrect, back to the assay office they go for re-hallmarking.  You will wait up to a few months until your item is eventually re-marked before you will get possession of it.

 

#7122. Garnets pearls enamel.  

 

This means that if an item is not appropriately hallmarked, it is not French. In most cases, if it is not 18k gold, it is not French. Even items made elsewhere and imported to France are strictly hallmarked. Sometimes, they will be a lower quality gold, and this will be denoted by the specific mark for imported gold of a lesser standard.

 

#5860. Certified jade, enamel. 

 

Enameling: sometimes found on antique French jewelry. They excel at various techniques eg plique a jour** which is too delicate for a bangle or bracelet. When they enamel, the work is perfect. Antique French bangles with enamel would be something that Faberge would be very proud to have made. Similarly, the precise and fine workmanship in setting of gemstones is always of the highest quality.

 

As in the rest of Europe, bangles were often worn over a blouse or gloves. Still, we must always check the size as our predecessors were often smaller than the well-fed human of the 21st century western world, and their jewelry might be too small to fit over our wrists.

As mentioned in previous postings, bangles were worn in multiples, often above the elbow during the Georgian and Victorian eras.

 

The Art Nouveau movement seems to have been drawn to bracelets as opposed to bangles. These are more flexible and flop around the wrist. Composed of segments, whether identical or alternating patterns, often finely set with diamonds, pearls and colored stones.

 

Whatever the style of your French jewel, you can be sure of sheer chic.  Once again, if you are looking for the WoW factor, then antique French bangles or bracelets are the way to go.

 

#6132.  Signed Gariod and Gautrait.  

**plique a jour: see blog posting on this subject (post 40)