Identifying Georgian jewelry origins.
How can we tell where a jewel was made?
Here are some clues about where a jewel was made. They are broad generalisations and not cast in stone. Look for other factors before coming to a conclusion.
Iberian jewelry is what we first think of when we talk about 18th century Georgian jewelry.**
Besides some stylistic differences, the easiest way to pin a location on a Georgian jewel is by the gemstones used. For example, the Spanish colonised Colombia with its rich emerald mines. Jewelry with emeralds can therefore be attributed to Spain. Topaz, found in Brazil, would point a jewel's origin to Portugal. This may be a broad generalization, but it is a start.
#5197 Huge Iberian amethyst earrings. 
Technology was still fairly primitive in the early Georgian period, yet by sheer craftsmanship, the Iberians managed to make fabulous, enormous jewelry whose detail can barely be rivalled today. Sometimes a number of gems were co-joined - in the Georgian version of an invisible setting, to look like one big stone. Fine filigree work gave a light feeling despite the incredible size and weight of these pieces.
#5595 Topaz and rock crystal ring. Note near invisibly set stones. 
Wonderful carvers were to be found in Italy, France and England. Coral, from the Mediterranean sea may be carved in any of these places and then mounted elsewhere. As a broad rule, it came from the South of Italy. A particularly fine school of ivory carving developed in Dieppe, France. Jet, on the other hand, was carved in Whitby, England.
#4275 Hardstone and coral cameo necklace. (sold)
Jewelry became lighter as the period progressed and technology improved. In general, French jewelry is lighter and more delicate than it's more somber central European counterpart.
#4545 French provincial pendant. Large and light. Very similar to work done in the Iberian Peninsula at the time. Look at the way the diamonds are held in the gold. 
The English seemed to delight in marvellous hand-painted enamel on gold. Marvellous miniature paintings, usually set as brooches and pendants can still be found.
This brooch should be transformed into a pendant so that we can enjoy both of the exquisitely painted scenes - one on each
side. #4195 (Sold) 
#5297 cameo ring: the cameo carver might have lived in Italy, France or England. However, there is no doubt that the beautiful enamel work, set very finely with diamonds and rubies comes from England.
The English began the craze for eye jewelry. Legend has it that the Prince of Wales, (future King George IV) had his lover/morganatic wife's eye painted in miniature. A full portrait would have caused a scandal as the relationship was frowned upon by his father, George III. **
#7349 
It was in England also, that Josiah Wedgwood began making porcelain and pottery. Amongst the marvelous ceramics of the day, were tiny jasper-ware depictions of Classic (Greek and Roman) gods and mythology as well as some of the celebrities of the time. These were set in very fine jewels, which have become quite rare and highly sought after today.
Georgian Wedgwood #4483 
For a discussion on the Georgian era, please see previous posts and future posts.
**Future posts on the meanings of girandole and pendeloque earrings, aigrettes, cannetille and stomachers.
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