channel settings - post 121

Part 6 of a series on metals settings

We began to look at some of the settings used to hold gems in jewelry.  We talked about collet, prongs and pave settings. (see posts 151 148, 150 and 120).

#7638  Channel set tennis bracelet.  

 

Channel settings are often seen in tennis or line bracelets as well as other forms of jewelry.
In Channel settings, the stones are placed between a pair of parallel metal bars, the upper portions of which may be pushed in slightly, helping to hold the gems in place. In a channel setting the stones are set flush one next to another with nothing between them. Above and below the stones, we do see the metal lines. 

A variation of the channel settings is the bar setting. In this case, there is a visible metal bar alongside each stone. It is as though each gem is contained in its own little cell. 

#5856 bars between gems.  

 

Channel Settings: usually the stones in a channel setting are faceted squares or rectangles and should be well-matched as regards size and color. This is especially true of Art Deco channel set jewelry and high quality work in periods after that.

Have you heard of putting a square peg in a round hole? It refers to a bad fit. In jewelry settings, round stones do less well in channel settings because you are literally putting a round peg in a square hole. Ideally, we want close fittings with minimal space between gems.
We noticed that a lot of beautiful Art Deco jewelry combines pave and channel settings. The channel set stones are usually bigger than their round pave set neighbors. The channel set areas are what usually form the focus, conveying luxury and quality. The pave gems complete the design. 

#6939 brooch/pair of clips.

Channel settings show off the gleam and reflective quality of the gems to a greater degree than do pave settings because they are presented in a continuum of the stone, all on one surface level. For this reason, channel settings are especially suited to calibre-cut stones - stones cut to precise geometric shapes that will fit flush next to the other gems in the setting.  

 

#4763 Diamond Band ring. Channel set rectangular diamonds give a rich, sophisticated look to this band. The round diamonds are pave set. 

Spoiler Alert: Why do we sometimes confuse invisible and channel settings? What is an invisible setting and why is it so famous?  Next week we will learn and understand all about it.

Questions and comments: Please email antiques@brendaginsberg.com
Find jewelry on www.brendaginsberg.com
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The full series of metal settings are in the following order:
151 introduction to metal settings
123 pulled gold 
148 collet
150 prongs
120 pave
121 channel
277 invisible 
149 gypsy /flush
278 others