Collet Gold Settings Post 148

Settings in Jewelry 3.    Post 148  Collet Gold Settings  Post 148.  

#4545.

We talked about the relevance of metal settings in previous posts. The earliest, pulled gold setting was discussed last week (post 123). 

Before the advent of sophisticated methods of setting gems, how was the antique jewelry-maker to show off his work and gems to best effect? He had limited means, as we saw with pulled gold settings last week. Progress was slow, but sure. Following the mere pulling up of gold around a gemstone, a little more play of light, a little less smothering of the gem resulted from a 'new' technique - the collet setting. There are a variety of these settings, illustrating more progress in the methods of setting gems.

Collet settings were most common in earlier periods. There are a number of minor variations which I will try to show and explain. 

When the metal is pulled up at right angles to the plane of the jewel to create a little cell that holds the gem, this is known as a collet-setting. A collet is a band or collar of metal encircling the stone at its girdle.

Here is a very simple sketch of a gemstone and then one showing a typical collet setting.

During earlier periods, the metal was pulled right up and covered part of the crown (top) of the gem. This is known as rubbed-over setting.  
During these early Georgian days, the back of the collet was closed, hence the name 'closed collet'. The biggest disadvantage to this system is that very little light entered the gemstones, which couldn't shine to best advantage. 
An advantage is that we can guess the age of an antique jewel when we see a closed collet.  Eventually, the back of a collet was left open, allowing more light to enter the gem from behind and thus adding to gleam and glow.

When the collet was made slightly lower than the crown, it was reinforced by little pleats on the outside of the metal, known as ribbing.  Seen from above, the ribs look like granules, and they are sometimes referred to as such. After the 1840’s, ribbing was not as prominent. 

#4955. (sold)

From the late 18th to the early 19th centuries, there was interest in seeing more of the gem and less of the metal. Technology was slowly advancing. The high walls of metal surrounding the gem began to come down. Lower and lower settings became possible and instead of folding the metal over the top of the gem as before, the metal only rose part way up the side of the gem (over the girdle, or widest part of the stone, which afforded a means of catching and securing the metal), leaving the entire top of the stone exposed. This was known as a cut-down collet setting.  

The upper edge of the collet may be left plain, or it can be enhanced in various ways. Scalloping is when the edge undulates in a wave pattern. This might be even further decorated with little scrolls or wirework/ of milgrain between the waves. The upper edge may also be pierced for decorative effect and to let additional light strike the gem. We find scalloped and decorative edges in jewelry made during the Renaissance and earlier eras. 

#5131.

During the 19th century, the milgrain form of collet setting was developed. Here the collet reaches the girdle of the stone. To hold the stone in place, small granules of metal, filigree or milgrain granules at the top of the collet are bent over the girdle.  

#5499 milgrain edges in an Art Deco ring.

Closed setting or partially closed setting had the great advantage of hiding flaws in gems.

 

ROMAN SEAL SETTINGS: are collet settings most often found in cameos and intaglios and also seen in signet rings. They are a form of rubbed-over settings in which a groove is carved in the collet and the upper part pulled over the gem. To me, it looks like a double border with an indentation running through the center.

BEZEL SETTING. This is another name for a rubover collet setting. Gold was stretched over the edge of the stone to add grip and hold the stone in place.  It can also be confusing as the top or decorative part of a ring is known as the bezel. 
Note: Bezel setting comes from the name of Bezalel, who was the first named jeweler in the world, having done jeweled crafts for the First Holy Temple in Jerusalem. 

Questions and comments: Please email antiques@brendaginsberg.com
Find jewelry on www.brendaginsberg.com
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The full series of metal settings are in the following order:
151 introduction to metal settings
123 pulled gold 
148 collet
150 prongs
120 pave
121 channel
277 invisible 
149 gypsy /flush
278 others

 

 

 

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