#7612 Belle Epoque emerald and diamond ring.  

I've written about some of my adventures, mis-adventures and experiences hunting for antique jewelry in France. 
I believe that the French made the most beautiful antique jewelry, so I continue to hunt, but as always, conditions change.

With the current tough conditions in France, it is a challenge to find unique, fine quality antique jewelry. 
Contrary to expectation, French women hold on to their antique jewelry when the economy is bad. Still, with some 
determination and passion, it is not impossible to find treasure. 

When buying antique jewelry in France, here are a few things to consider.

The French love to moan. It's a recognized fact that a real Frenchman (or woman) will not admit that things are going well. They will not admit that things are ok. No, 'it's terrible' is the bottom line. 
It is something of a comic opera to see just how dramatic some people can be - sighing and near-crying when considering the state of the French antique jewelry world. Sara Bernhardt move over.

   #5337 French cufflinks.

The French do not refer to "Georgian and Victorian" jewelry.  They see jewelry in terms of their own history. 
For example, they refer to the "First Empire", which is the important, short era when Napoleon ruled France. It is also
very important in the world of jewelry, because Napoleon Bonaparte and Josephine and their extended families, had an 
enormous influence. After that, there is the Restoration and Charles X, a little later followed by the very important 
Napoleon III and his wife, Eugenie. Art Nouveau is almost synonymous with France and where would Deco be without French
influence? 

Then, we have to consider the differences, and they are huge, between French jewelry made in Paris and that from the 
provinces. Parisienne jewelry was considered the top of the top and is very fine and subtle in color. Provincial jewelry involves more elements such as enamel and paste in place of expensive gems. It is often very colorful and it usually follows designs made for centuries in a particular area of France. We will discuss this in later posts in great detail. What is always true, is that French jewelry is beautifully
made. 

#5140 Stupendous French Provincial necklace (seen here only in part).. 

Here is another fantastic example of rare poissarde earrings: #7036  

One of history's most fascinating individuals is undoubtedly Napoleon Bonaparte. Napoleonic Empire antiques are a hot collectible. People are happy to pay millions of dollars for an old hat that the Emperor may have worn. The impact of Napoleon on history and antique jewelry are felt to this day, whether in remembering the Battle of Waterloo (June 1815), or the theft of antique jewelry from the Louvre (October 2025). 
Josephine, Napoleon's famously beautiful first wife was a passionate jewelry collector and set the new standards for indulgence in jewelry, cameos and gemstones. She set the fashion for Classic 
Revival. This pair of bracelets dates to the actual life-time of Napoleon and Josephine. Carved in agate hardstone, 
these cameos depict the Imperial couple, Napoleon with the laurel leaf crown and Josephine as a Classic Empress. 
Although Napoleon divorced Josephine in real life, the pair of bracelets shown here,  has stayed together for over 200 years. 

#5354

Fast forward a few decades and France was ruled by another Napoleon, the nephew of the 1st. His wife Eugenie was 
considered the ultimate fashionista and trend-setter.  Famous for her great beauty and style, the world, including her friend, 
Queen Victoria, looked and learned. Jewelry from the 2nd half of the 19th century is often referred to as Napoleon III 
in France. 

#4744. Gorgeous late 19th century long earrings. Day Night.

The French have possibly the longest history of assaying their metals, the French were leaders in the luxury arts world both in design and workmanship. The French totally dominated the wonderful world of Art Nouveau. More and More. 
This post only touches on a few characteristics of antique French jewelry. We have written and will continue to write more on the topic, so continue to read. 
 

And a footnote:

The whole world turned upside down when the Louvre was robbed of 8 pieces of jewelry in October 2025. All of them belong to the period we just discussed. While many people tried to figure out the value of these 8 jewels, the amount reached was based on their intrinsic value. What would the crooks hope to get if they broke the jewelry up into its constituent parts? For people like us, in the antique jewelry world, the material or intrinsic value is a remote fraction of the real value, which is historic and based on the very people we discuss above. These are the people who actually had the jewels made. The people who wore them. Provenance cannot be measured scientifically. Value is truly in the eye of the beholder. 

By the way: I was in Paris a few days before the robbery took place and one of my missed opportunities was going to see those jewels. My failure rankles. All I can say is: "It wasn't me".

Questions and comments: Please email antiques@brendaginsberg.com
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