Antique / Vintage necklace. Sapphires, pearls, silver and gold. Made by Mario Buccellati circa 1920-40's. Italian.
Measurements:
Weight is 62.70 grams. Length is 19 inches (48.5cm). 25.69ct sapphires.
Description :
Grapes and vines have been a popular theme in jewelry since the Ancient Greeks and Romans. There was a particularly strong revival of the subject during the Classic Revival period led by Castellani, who made his own version of grape and vine necklaces. This necklace is clearly in the line of this luscious topic, not only for its aesthetic beauty, but for the meaning and significance of the subject. (For an early example, see Shirley Bury page 393, volume 1).
This unique, one of a kind beautiful necklace consists of a central portion with three bunches of grapes, the largest in the center. The grapes are composed of beuatiful white, round pearls (untested) in 3-dimentional realism. The grapes drop from enclosing foliage, richly set with wonderful blue sapphires. Grape leaves and vines continue for the full extent of the necklace, sitting on gold-colored twigs with scrolling tendrils. Each section joined to the next via small silver loops.
Mario Buccellati
opened under his own name in 1919 and very rapidly rose to the ultimate heights of the luxury jewelry world. This is a rare piece, actually signed for Mario and not one of his famous children who followed in his footsteps, sometimes using designs made by their father. Typical characteristics of Buccellati that we can see in this necklace: Use of mixed metals (silver and gold); surfaces that are finely worked with linear engraving that immitates the rough surface of a twig on the vine. It appears that there was very little use of machinery in the construction of this necklace that was largely hand made. The sapphires are surrounded by gold on silver that looks as though it was pushed into shape with a human finger, like a piece of putty. Naturalistic coiling silver wire, modelled directly from nature. Marks and Metal: M BUCCELLATI.
Condition:
Good with minor wear commensurate with age. Please see enlarged pictures and don't hesitate to ask questions which we will do our best to answer.
In October 2019 Sothebys, Paris auctioned a few Buccellati necklaces made by the children of M. Buccellati. Prices ranged from $50000.000 to over $150000.00
Independent appraisal available to new owner.
