Antique Victorian Belle Epoque brooch. Platinum, Old European Cut and Rose Cut diamonds and pearl. Made in Paris, France by Henri Vever circa 1890 - 1914.
Measurements:
Weight is 8.3 grams. Approximately 1 7/8 inches (5cm) long.
OEC (Old European Cut) and Rosecut diamonds - approximately 1ct. Pearl is approximatley 5mm.
Description :
A wonderful combination of natural and design simplification that results in a superb brooch. A half-circle swoops up forming a bat-wing design that places as much attention on the spaces as the superbly fine platinum and diamond work. An arc of flowers or berries, colette-set-diamonds on exquisitely fine knife-edge stems that fan out from a central pearl that gleams in the lower center of the brooch. Around this arc of berries are gently curving stems supporting fine foliage, minisculy set with diamonds that glisten and gleam, grabbing the eye's attention. Far from flat, the brooch rolls, curves and waves - undulating from front to back as well as from side to side.
Clever, subtle, understated design with curves and lines leading the eye in different directions. Dips and waves, recesses and roundness - all perfectly balanced in a satisfying and aesthetically gorgeous whole.
The quality of the workmanship is exquisite. In places, the platinum wire-work is so hair-fine that it is barely visible. In others, the details such as the granulation on the edges of the colettes, barely visible to the naked eye, indicate a true artist, for whom there are no short-cuts.
The very fine-ness of the platinum metal work and the minutely set diamonds are the epitomy of quality, which the eye can't help notice.
The hinged side of the pin with a tiny gold bolt. Secure pin.
A small bolt at the back of the brooch facilitates removing the fittings, including the pin. Perhaps at some time there were alternative fittings to turn the brooch into another form of adornment such as a hair comb or pendant.
Marks and Metal:
VEVER - PARIS engraved on the side. Another pair of dog hallmarks (for platinum)on the side and one on the pin as well as a model number 2798.
Condition:
Good with negligible wear commensurate with age. Please see enlarged pictures and don't hesitate to ask questions which we will do our best to answer.
THE STORY
Henri Vever often used natural forms and simplified natural forms in his jewelry designs. His brooches and pendants include the world of flowers, foliage, berries, butterflies, women and birds.
Excess detail was often excluded and nature was reduced to its elemental symbolic form that almost borders on the stylised.
In this brooch, we can see explicit foliage and hints of berries, buds and batwings. During this period, nature was the source of inspiration for jewelry, including birds and more rarely, bats. During the Art Nouveau/late Victorian era, bats were an unusual source of inspiration and possibly because they are so rare in jewelry, bat jewelry is highly sought after today.
More importantly, the design and exquisite workmanship of the brooch is a reflection of Henri Vever's status as top French jewelry designer after Rene Lalique. Truly luxurious.
