Antique Georgian parure set consisting of necklace and earrings. 18k gold, silver, diamonds, natural pearls. Made in France circa 1819-1840. Comes in fitted box. Suitable for a bride. Appraisal.
Measurements:
Weight of necklace is 15.0 grams. Earrings weigh 8.7 grams. Large table diamond on pendant measures approximately 9X5mm. Length of necklace is approximately 14 inches (36cm).
Description :
Pearl necklace made to sit at the nape of the neck with strands that hang in swags, known as en esclavage in French. The center of the necklace in the form of a rounded oval with concentric rings of pearls, gold, silver and with a very old cut (almost table cut, but slightly more faceted on the sides) diamond in the center. Silver was used to set diamonds at that time, so all diamonds were set in silver with the rest of the mount, including back of the silver, in gold. tongue-in-groove clasp in the form of a flower, set with pearls. Long dangling earrings or ear pendants. Known as top/drop or day/night because the tops can be seperated from the drops and worn alone for a simpler look by day. At night, the long, elegant drops would be simply threaded back onto the wires of the tops. As was the custom during the 19th century, the earrings were inserted from the back to the front of the earlobe and while many earrings from the period have been altered, these are totally original. Surmounts are an old square mine cut diamond set in silver over gold. Very typically French. Drops in two parts - a scrolling fan with the apex on top, lined with gold ribbon, bordered with pearls and centered with diamonds. The diamond bottoms lead via loops to the pear-shaped drops - again outer pearls, an inner border of gold and a central line of bright, gleaming diamonds. Drops swing and sway independently as the wearer moves. Backs are enclosed in gold, typical of the Georgian period. The set comes in an antique fitted box which is most likely original. It does have place for a brooch or ring - lost over the years. the heart-shaped box with red leather outside, silk inner lid and velvet fitted bottom. Hooked clasps to close the box. The necklace has a gold safety chain which is a later addition, but adds security to the wearer. Beautiful set, especially suitable for a young girl or bride.
Marks and Metal:
Not unusually for French jewelry, the gold has been assayed on more than one occasion. Looking at the pearl clasp, we see both the French eagle head and the ram's head that indicate 18k gold. The ram's head was used for 1819-1838 and the eagle's head from 1838. One of the loops that joins the central pendant to a pearl strand has a mark - not clear which one it is. Tongue of clasp has French eagle head. Earrings with gold mark (owl) and silver mark (swan). Safety chain loops are hallmarked.
Condition:
Good with minor wear commensurate with age. Please see enlarged pictures and don't hesitate to ask questions which we will do our best to answer. Professional, idependent appraisal.
