Art Nouveau Plique a Jour Enamel Silver Pearls Peridot Pendant Necklace (7136)

Antique Art Nouveau Jugendstil necklace and pendant. 900 silver, pearls, peridot and plique a jour enamel. Made in Pforzheim, Germany, circa 1895 - 1910.

Measurements: Weight is 10.3 grams in total. Length is 16inches (41cm). Pendant, from top of pearls to bottom of folage is 2 inches (5cm).

Description : Necklace composed of a silver and pearl chain with pendant drop composed of silver, plique a jour enamel and pearls. The upper section of the pendant is in the form of a stylised flower, the petals being long pearls that radiate from a central round green peridot, set in a silver colette. Loops suspend another smaller pearl, which is free to swing and sway independently of the upper section, as the wearer moves. A pair of silver chains, matching those above, fork from this flower and connect to a pair of scrolling leaves, winding around one another and enclosing a pair of long pearls in the hollow between them. The foliage is composed from silver cells set with plique a jour enamel in shades of green, from pale yellow/lime green through to deep emerald forest green. The plique a jour enamel matches the peridot beautifully. Silver chain with 8 stations set with a pearl. Not easily visible, hidden behind the surmount, are 2 clasps attached to the pearl surmount, allowing the chain to be removed and another to replace it if desired. A more easily accessed clasp at the end of the chain. Pearls not tested by almost certainly natural. Various similar pendant necklaces and brooches are shown in the book by Fritz Falk - Jugendtil-Schmuck: Art Nouveau Jewellery from Pforzheim. In particular necklaces by Levinger & Bissinger and Lauer & Wiedmann are made by the same designers and craftsmen. It is known that workers moved freely from one factory to another, so this necklace could be from either of these jewellers.

Page 139 of Vivienne Becker's book on Art Nouveau Jewelry shows a very similar necklace, designed by Georg Kleemann and made by Lauer und Wiedmann. We have shown it with ours superimposed in the last picture. 

Marks and Metal: Back with 900 and DEPOSE marks, typical of jewelry made in Pforzheim, possibly for the French market.

Condition: Considering the age and delicate material, the condition is good with minor wear/bruising to enamel commensurate with age and wear. Please see enlarged pictures and don't hesitate to ask questions which we will do our best to answer.