Skip to product information
1 of 12

Brenda Ginsberg Antique Jewelry

Antique Art Nouveau scarf pin ring French panthers 18k gold ruby Unisex (7355)

Antique Art Nouveau scarf pin ring French panthers 18k gold ruby Unisex (7355)

Regular price $7,500.00 USD
Regular price Sale price $7,500.00 USD
Sale Sold out
Shipping calculated at checkout.

Antique Art Nouveau scarf pin ring. 18k gold and ruby. Made in France circa 1895 - 1910.
Suitable for a man or a woman.
Independent appraisal.

Measurements: Weight is 13.1 grams. 1 1/4inches (a little over 3cm) long. Ruby 1.73ct.

Description : These rare and exceptionally made items can be regarded as rings, brooches or clips. Known in France as coulant de foulard, they were made towards the end of the 19th century during the late Victorian / Art Nouveau period. The highly fashion - conscious French would have a special form of jewel to hold their scarves 'just so' in place. As practical today as they were then, this is a great example of unisex jewelry that can be worn by a man or a woman.

This scarf ring or clip, is a fabulous Art Nouveau depiction of a pair of mirror image panthers with a cabochon ruby between their jaws. Superb modelling of the bodies - we see the rippling muscles of the crouching animals. They convey the ultimate in feline, supple, power and strength. Paws show every flexed toe - fantastic! The narrower band at the back of the ring is also interesting: modelled with lines of interlocking birds, possibly swallows.
Taking center stage is a large, cabochon ruby of a fantastic pinky-red shade.
The quality of this particular scarf ring is reflected in the opening mechanism - a hinge on one side and on the other side, a tightly fitting 'tongue in groove' that is both easy to pull apart and easy to shut. Closes firmly and the detail on the clasp keeps it entirely hidden from view.  

Versatile and wearable, this scarf pin is suitable for any person of any gender. Above that, it is a true tiny work of art.

From the same period, Boucheron made a belt buckle with a pair of panthers holding a cabochon gem in their mouths. While there is a great similarity in the concept between this scarf ring and their buckle, and both were made at approximately the same time in Paris, we cannot attribute the ring to Boucheron without a signature. (see photo of the buckle). However, I would say that this is true museum quality, French art at its zenith. From the fabulous design to the very solid workmanshp, a wonderful asset to any collection and as wearable today as it was 130 years ago.

Marks and Metal: 2 French eagle head marks on the pin inside the ring. These indicate 18k gold, made in Paris.

Condition: Good with negligible wear commensurate with age. Please see enlarged pictures and don't hesitate to ask questions which we will do our best to answer.
Independent appraisal available to new owner.

View full details