Antique Victorian / Napoleon III ring. 18k gold and Perpignan garnets. Made in France, 19th century.
Measurements:
Weight is 4.9 grams. US size 7.75.
Description :
The bright, bubble-gum pink-red color of the garnets in this ring are what make Perpignan garnets immediately identifiable.
The top of this ring is centered by a large, navette - shaped garnet. It is open at the back, indicating its exceptional quality. It is held up above the level of it's border by a gold, crenelated colette - a band of gold with tower-like edges. Slightly below the center is a border of round Perpignan garnets, each set in gold which joins up with its neighbors. These are enclosed in gold. Colors of garnets are very well matched and appear slightly lighter/darker depending on how the light catches them.
The wide gold band of the ring is unusually ornate. The shoulders are composed of openwork scrolls, forming hearts, and ending in capitols, like Ancient Greek pillars.
Marks and Metal:
The outside of the shank has the French horse head mark for 18k gold and a makers mark with monogram JA.
Condition:
Good with negligible wear commensurate with age. Please see enlarged pictures and don't hesitate to ask questions which we will do our best to answer.
THE STORY:
Perpignan garnets are immediately recognisable by their bright strawberry-pink to scarlet color and their simple rose cut facets. They are invariably foiled or close-backed to enhance their brilliant color. Coming from the area near Perpignan in France, they are considered regional jewelry, but are today, sought after throughout France and internationally. As supply has disappeared, the historic jewels are increasingly rare and in high demand. Over the last decade or so, I've seen the prices of Perpignan jewelry more than quadruple.
Mined from the 11th century until almost 150 years ago, the mines are now deplete, making these gems increasingly rare.
Historically, Perpignan garnets were attributed to having medicinal properties - having the ability to cure blood disorders and excessive anger.
There is a small mystery attached to this ring: Looking closely at the back/inside of the top of the ring, we find that the central, navette is connected via loops to the encircling border. It is totally secure and sturdy, but it begs the question of why it was made this way. Was the jeweler leaving his options open or leaving the choice of central stone to the customer?
