Antique Holbeinesque Renaissance Revival Victorian pendant. 18k gold, garnet, chrysoberyl blue enamel. Made in England, circa 1850-1870.
Accompanied by a gemstone report by an independent appraiser, a GIA Graduate Gemologist.
Measurements:
Weight is 10.7 grams. Slightly over 2 inches (5.5cm) long, not including the loops, which add about 1cm to the length.
Chrysoberyl total weight approximately 3.30ct.
Description :
An upright oval with a collet-set cabochon garnet in the center surrounded by a tubular frame of bright yellow gold, alternately enameled with bright, royal blue flowers and collet-set round chrysoberyl. Bows in gold and blue at the top and bottom add a subtle enriching detail. A few gold links allow a smaller, lozenge-shaped pendant to swing freely below the main body of the pendant. It is set with four square chrysoberyl gems that match those above. The lower corner of this swinging pendant has a tiny trio of gold granules that finish off the design.
The original loop at the top of the pendant has been supplemented with a larger gold loop to facilitate a large chain or ribbon.
Marks and Metal:
No marks found, as most English jewelry of this period was not hallmarked. Gold was tested as 18k.
Condition:
Good with negligible wear commensurate with age. Enamel in very good condition. Please see enlarged pictures and don't hesitate to ask questions which we will do our best to answer.
THE STORY:
In 1851, at the time of the Great Exhibition in London, the English realized they needed an answer to the Revival style of French jewelers such as Emile Froment-Meurice. This was the motivation for Holbeinesque jewelry, which was loosely based on the paintings and designs of Hans Holbein the Younger, a German artist who worked in England during the reign of Henry VIII, in the Tudor era. While there are no rigid rules for what constitutes this Renaissance Revival or Tudor style, in general, Holbeinesque pendants are upright ovals, very often set with a large cabochon or carbuncle in the center and surrounded by enamel on gold designs with gem highlights. A further small pendant drops from the main body, echoing the gems in the upper section.
The larger loop, probably added to the original smaller one, is a reminder that pendants like this were originally worn on a ribbon or heavy gold chain.
Many Holbeinesque pendants illustrated in jewelry books today are given a generic date of 1870, so we have used a date range of 1850-1870, covering the style’s origins through the height of Revivalist jewelry.
NOTE:
Gold chain shown in some pictures is not included with this item.
