Antique Georgian sentimental brooch. Gold, silver, paste. Made in the UK, circa 1785 - 1800.
Unisex - suitable to be worn by a man or a woman.
Measurements:
Weight is 5.1 grams. Length excluding pin is 7/8 inches (2.3cm). Pin extends an additional .5cm.
Gold tests approximately 9ct.
Description :
The brooch is identifiable as Georgian from it's shape alone - like a rounded rectangle or a very full oval. The border is set with paste imitating diamonds, set in silver as was the custom for diamonds at the time. Paste jewelry was highly regarded by the Georgians and this is particularly beautiful, original paste in the shape of Old Mine Cut diamonds.
A gold inner mount contains a miniature hand painted portrait of an eye. It is the brown right eye of a lady, as evidenced by the curled locks falling from brow to cheek. Beautiful detail to the painting.
The back is enclosed in gold. After more than 200 years, the original c-clasp and hinged pin have not been replaced or broken. The pin extends somewhat beyond the end of the brooch, which typical of the Georgian period.
An authentic and very beautiful example of an increasingly rare form of jewelry.
Marks and Metal:
No marks, as is to be expected of a brooch from the Georgian era. Gold was electronically tested.
Condition:
Good. Pin is slightly bent and gold has very minor dings - all commensurate with age and wear. Please see enlarged pictures and don't hesitate to ask questions which we will do our best to answer.
THE STORY:
The shape of the brooch is the first give-away for Georgian jewelry. This unusually full oval is typical of the era and not nearly as common in later jewels.
The exact origin of eye miniatures is steeped in mystery and debate. As usual, the English have one version and the French, quite another.
The UK version claimed that in 1785, the then womanizing Prince Regent, later to become King George IV had one made for his secret wife, Mrs. Maria Fitzherbert.
George IV was a trend-setter and this set the fashion for miniature eye jewelry. Since extra-marital affairs were common during this period, at least amongst the upper classes and nobility, eye jewelry soon became very popular. Only the giver and the receiver would know the identity of the portrait adding to the romance and excitement of the gift. This wonderful example can of course, be worn by either a man or a woman.
While the English claim priority with lover's eyes, the French were not to be outdone so easily. According to French sources, the French created eye jewelry even earlier, so the claim of who got there first is still up for grabs.
What is undisputed is that when George IV died, he was found to be still wearing a miniature portrait of Mrs. Fitzherbert close to his heart, despite their years of enforced separation.
