Antique Victorian brooch. 18k yellow gold, moonstone and tiny pink/red rubies/sapphires. Made by Tiffany & CO and retailed in their Paris branch. Circa 1875-1900.
Comes in antique Tiffany & Co box.
Measurements:
Weight is 5.7 grams. 1 3/4 inches (4.5cm) long.
Description :
Outspread gold wings, combine strength and delicacy. Each feather is perfectly modelled and finely detailed. The subtle glow of the gold draws the eye.
Forming the body of the brooch, is a carved moonstone owl. The quality of the carving is superb and can only be compared to the owls carved by Paul Robin in Paris at the same time. Eyes are set with tiny red cabochon stones. These are most likely rubies, but are too small to test.
Simple c-clasp for pin at the back.
The brooch comes in a red leather box with gold embossing and silk lining.
The tiny pink/red cabochon eyes are believed to be rubies or pink sapphires, but are too small to test.
Marks and Metal:
TIFFANY & CO mark slightly faded on top of one wing. Previous owner's inventory mark 4644 scratched on back.
Box is embossed in gold with TIFFANY & CO PARIS.
The absence of French gold hallmarks indicates that the brooch was made in the USA and retailed in Paris.
Condition:
Brooch is in good condition with negligible wear commensurate with age. Box is also in good condition except for the join of top to bottom, where the silk is in shreds. The rest of the silk and the leather of the box are in very good shape as is the clasp of the box. The color of the box looks slightly pink - possible faded over the years.
Please see enlarged pictures and don't hesitate to ask questions which we will do our best to answer.
THE STORY:
This brooch combines many sought-after elements in antique jewelry over and above the superb workmanship:
In no order of importance: The fact that it was made by Tiffany & Co. - perhaps the most pre-eminent name in American jewelry at the time, goes without saying. Without even seeing the brooch, we know it is the best of the best.
Secondly, carved moonstone heads with their celestial gleam are intensely coveted - when they can be found. The quality of the carving adds a superlative to this particular head.
Thirdly, owls were a popular subject for the late Victorians. French master carvers such as Paul Robin and O. Massin boasted examples. We very rarely see owls come to the jewelry market. They were snapped up years ago.
Adding to the singularity of this brooch is the pair of wings, another popular feature in late Victorian brooches. Once again, the quality of the gold work and its detailing makes this a highly superior example.
Finally, coming in the TIFFANY & CO Paris box, adds that extra zing to this prize jewel. The box not only protects the gold and gems, but adds historical prestige and provenance. Tiffany Paris was the high end, premium of Tiffany jewelry, going well above anything mass-produced and sold in the USA.
Why Collectors and Enthusiasts Value Such Brooches
Collectors seek brooches that offer a balance of artistic detail, historical significance, and quality materials. A brooch that successfully combines multiple highly prized features demonstrates the maker’s expertise and reflects the cultural and aesthetic values of its time. It not only serves as a wearable work of art but also as a potentially valuable collectible investment.
In summary, this brooch’s integration of multiple sought-after elements and superb craftsmanship makes it a standout example of antique jewelry, admired both for its beauty and its historical and collectible significance.
