Antique Art Nouveau bracelet bangle. 18k yellow gold and sapphires. Made by Robert Louchet in France early 1900's (circa 1905).
Measurements:
Weight is 31.8 grams. 7 1/2 inches (19cm) long. 12 Sapphires each approximately 2.50mm.
Description :
Arching rectangular stations in openwork yellow gold. Each station is composed of a pair of mirror image snake or dragon head figures that overlap one another and swoop diagonally from the middle on the bottom to the corners above. The area beneath each serpent head with gold scrolls, foliage and a trio of fruit : pomegranate, pear and apple. Fruit is naturalistically formed with the seeds of the pomegranates showing. Each snake grasps a blue sapphire in its mouth. Round sapphires are set in gold collets with beaded borders. The stations are joined via small gold links that allow the bracelet to bend around the wearer's wrist.
Tongue in groove clasp. A safety chain for added security appears to be original to the bracelet.
Marks and Metal:
The tongue is marked with the French eagle head and Rhinoceros head, both for 18k gold. Maker's mark lozenge with the initials RL around a pair of spades. See 'The Story' below.
Condition:
Good condition with minor wear commensurate with age. Possible repair of loop near tongue of clasp, not visible at all to naked eye (seen only with high magnification). Please see enlarged pictures and don't hesitate to ask questions which we will do our best to answer.
THE STORY:
Robert Louchet was a well-known and highly regarded French jeweler. His family, specializing in bronzes, were colleagues of Art Nouveau stars such as Lalique, Majorelle and Daum.
The maker's mark with the maker's initials flanking a pair of shovels is a great pun on his name. In French, louchet is a narrow spade, used for digging. That is not the only reference. During the Victorian era and early 19th century, gold and the search for gold was often represented by a pair of narrow spades, such as these. We have seen many brooches with this exact image. What could be more fitting as an 'in joke' or reference?
