Transformable Antique Art Deco brooch converting to double clips or a pendant. Platinum and gold, diamonds, emeralds. Made early 20th century circa 1920, by Marcus & Co.
Measurements:
Weight is 18.8 grams. Length as a brooch is 2 inches (5cm). 4.25ct diamonds. 2.17ct emeralds.
Description :
Transformable jewelry that can convert from a single brooch to a double / pair of clips or even a pendant.
The elongated form with its sinuous, scalloped outline reflects the Persian and Islamic design influences fashionable among the great jewelry houses of the early 20th century. The strong design and setting of the gems as well as the white metal (platinum), is firmly Art Deco, incorporating geometrically shaped emeralds and diamonds. Spaces between very finely pave set with diamonds. Baguette cut diamonds form an openwork butterfly design where the pair of clips meet / center of the brooch. Emerald cut emeralds form a line that stretches across the center of the brooch, drawing the eye outwards to the points on either side.
The emeralds and diamonds are placed on an openwork mount that rises above the surface of the cloth it is attached to. This allows light to enter from behind and adds to the gleam of the gems. Additional use of light between the gems is created by the openwork spaces. Milgrain borders add subtle interest and further reflect light.
When worn as a brooch, there is a pin with secure clasp.
A pair of lengthy loops allows a chain of almost any size or ribbon to transform it to a pendant. Loops are possibly later added.
The brooch separates into a pair of clips.
Lift up the pin, pull up the hinged clasps of the clips and the brooch pops open separating into two clips. Gently pull out the pin of the brooch and the gold bar that holds them together and the clips are ready to wear.
Versatile and beautiful, the brooch/clips is very well made as evidenced by its appearance as well as the ease with which it seperates or re-unites to its component parts.
Marks and Metal:
Both clips are signed MARCUS. Extensive electronic testing showed metals as follows: the top, visible portion is set in platinum; the back is gold - partly 14 and partly 18k.
Condition:
Good with minor wear commensurate with age. Mechanism for seperating or re-uniting the parts works very easily and efficiently. Please see enlarged pictures and don't hesitate to ask questions which we will do our best to answer.
THE STORY:
Marcus & Co initially produced jewelry for Tiffany & Co. Much of the exquisite work signed Tiffany & Co. was actually made by Marcus. Eventually, Marcus began working under their own name in an independent company. They were especially recognized for their Art Nouveau enameling and for the bright gems they used in their recognizably vivid style. Today, Marcus & Co are highly sought after and recognized as one of the premier jewelry manufacturers of the USA.
Before the advent of electricity, diamonds were best shown off in candle or gas light, when set in silver. However silver tarnishes and would blacken any skin or clothes fabric it came into contact with. Therefore, jewelry was made with gold which does not tarnish, and a layer of silver was placed above the gold for setting the gems, particularly diamonds. From about 1900 onwards, platinum began to replace silver as the white metal of choice over gold. In the case of this brooch, platinum was set over gold, which was the norm for jewelry at this time.
Note:
appraisal only mentions 14k gold. We had the metal extensively tested - see Marks and Metal above.
