Froment-Meurice Alfred Mayer. Antique Second Empire (Napoleon III) parure or jewelry set consisting of brooch-pendant and earrings. 18k gold, diamonds, pearls, enamel. Comes in fitted box signed Froment-Meurice and signed by enameller Alfred Meyer. Made in France, circa 2nd half of 19th century, circa 1870.
Measurements:
Earrings weigh 8.0 grams. Pendant 18.8 grams alone and 21.2 grams including the brooch fitting. Earrings, not including wires are 1 1/8inches (3cm) long. Pendant brooch just under 2 1/2 inches (6.5cm) long.
Description :
Brooch-Pendant: Oval in shape, rising to a higher plane on the sides. Border of pearls encloses 'shoulders' composed of concentric rings of gold supporting an outer ring of forked foliage, finely set with small rose cut diamonds. The inner ring composed of flowers formed by gold colettes also containing small rose cut diamonds. Diamonds appear to float in the air. An inner border of gold contains an enamel plaque. Plaque is slightly concave, has a brown ground that glimmers gold, with white enamelled classical Roman or Greek figure of a dancing woman in diaphenous robes, highlighted with gold. Robes and hair fly as she twirls, arms raised. A tall Grecian urn stands slightly behind her.
The bale is fabulous. At the back is a broad, curving pear-shaped band that links through the loop of the pendant drop. The front is highly detailed - with a 3-lobed tulip-like flower at its base, set with diamonds and outlined in gold. From the space between the petals fan scrolls - outwards and upwards, gold ribbon borders, containing pearls on the sides and another botanical form in the center. Further foliage above the sides and finally, a trio of pearls at the apex.
Brooch and pendant with removable clasps that can be exchanged for either. The one not in use will be stored - see box below.
Superb workmanship - see how beautiful the back is.
BACK: To exchange pendant and brooch fittings, you must first find the 'secret compartment' at the back that houses the alternative mount. The pendant fitting folds back near the bale, partially releasing it. Then, remove the gold pin from the opposite side - simply pull it out. Now fit the pin into the brooch fitting and remove the fitting of the pendant.
Superb mechanism and technical work in gold could never be replicated in today's world of making a quick buck. This is a true museum piece - from the outstanding museum quality enamelling to the exquisitely fine diamond and gold work, every aspect of this set should leave the true collector gasping with admiration.
Earrings: Earrings echo the form of the brooch, being oval in shape with an outer border of pearls, followed by an inner border of gold rings holding diamonds that seem to float in the air. They are in the same flower form as the inner diamond ring of the brooch-pendant. Similar plaques form with Classic Greek or Roman figures, one facing left and one facing right. A loop connects the plaques to a pearl surmount. Simple gold wires. Wires like this are often replacements making them easier to insert and comfortable to wear.
Fitted box: The set comes in an original fitted box. Made of navy blue leather with the previous owner's initials M.B embossed on the outside of the lid. Clasp and leather as well as embossing in very good shape. Silk lined inner lid and shaped velvet fitted bottom.
The back of the box has a 'secret' compartment that slides open to reveal a blue silk-lined interior in which the fitting for brooch or pendant is stored when not in use.
When closed, the compartment is almost invisible, again attesting to the quality of the workmanship from a-z in every aspect of this set.
Marks and Metal:
Earrings: The wires have owl marks for 18k gold. 2 hallmarks on the loops, one of which is clearly the owl mark, the other not clear. The backs of the plaques on the earrings are each signed A.M in gold (for Alfred Meyer).
Pendant/brooch: gold loop of bale with swan and owl marks. These signify silver and 18k gold respectively. Marks on the small loop are worn and not legible. Back of pendant with A. MEYER mark and front with A.M monogram.
Seperate fitting for brooch with owl mark on the c-clasp.
Fitted case with embossed FROMENT MEURICE 372 rue St. Honoré — PARIS on the silk lining of the lid. Top of box with monogram M. B.
Condition:
Good. No damage found. Jewelry and box appear to have never been used or worn. Please see enlarged pictures and don't hesitate to ask questions which we will do our best to answer.
THE STORY:
Alfred Bernard Meyer was an accomplished artist, excelling especially in fantastic Renaissance and Classic Revival enamel on copper plaques, but painting and doing ceramics as well. He was highly regarded and is mentioned many times by Henry Vever, who wrote the definitive work on antique French Jewelry. Vever called him one of the finest enamel artists. No less than Alexis Falize invited him to participate in a competiton around 1860-1865.
Fascinatingly, while Meyer focused on ancient and antique themes in a very Classic style, in person he was a socialist and involved in a number of political (and artistic) groups.
Previous owner believed that the pearls are natural, but we have not had them tested as such.
Froment-Meurice was one of the most highly regarded French jewelry makers of the 19th century. Just look at the book by Vever and see how he dominated the world of jewelry at that time. There are two possibilities for this set: 1) It is very likely that he had a store in which he sold not only his own beautiful items, but exceptional items that were made by someone else such as this great set. 2) many items are attributed to Froment-Meurice that are not actually signed by him. It's possible that he did make this set, but did not sign it as with so many other jewels. This practice was very common with jewellers of that period and not to be seen as an exception.
The esteemed Wartsky has a pendant with a similar enamel by Alfred Meyer, signed by Froment-Meurice. In their description, they write: A pendant by Emile Froment-Meurice centred with an enamel painting by Alfred Meyer formed part of the ‘Pariser Schmuck’ exhibition held at the Bayerisches Nationalmuseum in Munich,
1st December 1989-4th March 1990, catalogue no. 32, reproduced p.112 in the catalogue.
Another similar example, by Maison Vever (see page 200 of the book Pariser Schmuck and last 'photo), shows a similar jewel with enamel by Alfred Mayer. Clearly, the elite of Paris jewellers cooperated and worked closely together.
