Antique Art Deco jabot brooch pin. Gold, platinum, diamonds, carved citrine, onyx and blue gems. Made 1920's in France by Paul Levy, known as SASPORTAS for Cartier. (see below). Unisex - suitable for a man or a woman.
Measurements:
Weight is 6.70 grams. Length is 3 1/2 inches (a tad under 10cm).
Description :
A hand-carved buddha, sitting cross-legged, with folded hands and loose robes. He is carved from a single large orange-yellow citrine that glows lighter or darker as the light catches it. A halo formed by a ring of pave set diamonds. Metal with millegrain edges. Buddha sits on a seat of similar rose cut diamonds with a line of calibre cut and set blue sapphires, believed to be synthetic, placed at a right angle to the seat and leading the eye in a line from the halo. The pin at the other end is composed of a matching line of calibre-cut onyx with a geometric border of rose-cut diamonds.
Exceptional workmanship as is to be expected from Sasportas and Cartier.
A wonderful international, universal statement that combines religion, philosophy, art and beauty.
We see the novel ideas and innovation that made this period and Sasportas one of the greatest in jewelry production.
Marks and Metal:
The pin is marked with the French eagle head for 18k gold, the dog head for platinum and a somewhat illegible makers mark for Paul Levy. The pin/catch is marked with a C2735 for Cartier and the serial or model number.
Condition:
Good with minor wear commensurate with age. Please see enlarged pictures and don't hesitate to ask questions which we will do our best to answer.
THE STORY:
Paul Levy, also known as Sasportas (after his wife's last name), made fabulous jewelry for Cartier, Van Cleef and Arpels and under his own/his wife's name between 1919 and his death in 1940. He won the gold medal in the 1925 Exhibition of Decorative Arts and was known for his innovative, imaginative jewelry, each piece totally unique. As we know, Sasportas produced one-of-a-kind items for Cartier and Van Cleef and Arpels.
A similar Cartier jabot is to be seen in the wonderful book on Art Deco Jewelry by Sylvie Raulet - see page 140.
