Antique Victorian Napoleon III romantic locket brooch. Silver, gold, enamel, paste. Made in the Bresse province of France, late 19th century.
While originally made for a woman, it is suitable for wear by a man (unisex).
Measurements:
Weight is 21.2 grams. Length is 1 3/4 inches (4.5cm).
Description :
Oval shape. Outer border of beautiful cushion-shape paste, closely set around a gold inner border that encircles the main body of the jewel. The main body with a rich royal blue enamel ground. Around the edge is a ring of gold stars and round suns. A close look at the round stations shows that they are slightly raised with beadwork on the circumference, symbolizing the rays of the sun. Towards the center of the oval is a heart under a crown. The heart and crown are both outlined in paste, gleaming like diamonds. The inner arch of the crown is in gold. The most exciting part of the whole is the scene depicted in enamels within the heart. A pair of exotic birds face one another. They stand on a green mound outlined in gold. A sunflower between them and arched stems with flowers above, all with gold detail. The enameling is extremely fine.
Romantic themes in the crowned heart and the lovebirds in a garden, so beautifully depicted.
This example of Bresse enamel goes well beyond most jewelry from the area. The design is richer, especially the incorporation of the romantic crown and heart. It is set with the fabulous paste, that looks very much like Old Mine Cut diamonds of the period. Finally, the love-bird and floral scene, with the gilded details is a step above the simpler designs of most jewels from this area and period.
The sentimental theme is continued when we look at the back of the brooch and see it is fitted with a glass-covered locket. This would hold a portrait or memento such as hair of a loved one.
Simple pin and c-clasp appear to be replacements or the originals, re-attached.
Marks and Metal:
Possible hallmarks on the side of the brooch are no longer legible.
Condition:
The brooch is in very good antique condition considering its age. The glass of the locket has a small chip/graze on the edge that does not impact the use of the locket and is not visible from the front. The pin was replaced. The enamel, gold and paste are all in very good condition. Please see enlarged pictures and don't hesitate to ask questions which we will do our best to answer.
THE STORY:
Bresse enamels (sometimes called émaux de Bresse) were produced in the Bresse region of eastern France, especially around the town of Bourg‑en‑Bresse. They became especially popular in the 19th century, though the craft dates back earlier. They’re known for brilliant, opaque enamel colors and intricate gold or silver filigree patterns laid over the enamel. Our example goes well beyond this, with it's superb paste and pictoral scene.
We are including photos from the book on Emaux de Bresse Joyaux du quotidien (page 54 and 55) that show examples of this art form and describe the manufacturing process.
How Bresse enamels were made:
The technique is a blend of metalwork and enamel artistry:
A metal base (usually silver) is shaped.
Areas are filled with vibrant enamel—a glassy paste that’s fired to fuse it to the metal.
Fine gold or silver wires are applied on top to create scrolling, floral, or geometric designs.
The piece is fired again to set everything in place.
The result is a jewel that feels both delicate and durable, with a distinctive “French” elegance.
Meaning of heart and crown: one of the most universal symbols going back thousands of years is the heart, which symbolizes love as we all know. The crowned heart adds the element of loyalty and the rule of the heart and its ultimate authority. The lovebirds are also full of significance: love and devotion, lifelong partnership, harmony and mutual affection and the unity of marriage.
Most importantly, this is an incredibly beautiful work of art and romance to be enjoyed today as it was about 150 years ago.
