Antique Art Deco ring. Platinum, Old European cut diamond, additional diamond and ruby accents. Made 1920-1930. Exact origin not known - possibly United Kingdom or United States.
Comes with GIA certificate.
Measurements:
Weight is 6.8 grams. US size 7. Can be resized. GIA certificate for central diamond states 1.40ct. Additional 0.35ct diamonds.
Description :
Square base. Sides rise like a pyramid, culminating in a cushiony diamond. Diamond collet set. Each corner is set with a smaller collet set diamond. The corner diamond is followed by concentric arcs of alternating diamonds and rubies that sweep inwards towards the center. Deep red rubies calibré set and diamonds pave set. Milgrain platinum borders add extra twinkle and interest. Very fine workmanship with no spaces between gems.
The whole is raised on a double openwork gallery that allows light to enter from behind the gems and raises the ring slightly above the finger. It is, in itself, a work of fine craftsmanship — an elaborately pierced platinum framework visible beneath the mount, revealing that the jeweler's attention extended well beyond what the wearer would ever see.
The hoop has trefoil forked shoulders, the middle set with a small collet-set diamond with milgrain edges. The three shoulders converge and unite into a slender, elegantly plain platinum band.
Marks and Metal:
No marks were found. Electronically tested as platinum.
Condition:
Good with negligible wear commensurate with age. Please see enlarged pictures and don't hesitate to ask questions which we will do our best to answer.
THE STORY:
The Art Deco movement arrived as a deliberate counterpoint to what came before it. Where Art Nouveau dissolved boundaries between human and animal, ornament and nature — Art Deco reasserted them. The curve gave way to the angle. The organic gave way to the geometric. Jewelry became architecture.
This ring is a precise expression of that philosophy. The square mount, its concentric bands rising in measured tiers toward the central diamond, has the confident logic of a building plan — each element in its assigned place, nothing superfluous, nothing accidental. The alternating ruby and diamond sections are not merely decorative; red and white, warm and cool, they create a visual rhythm that pulls the eye inward with quiet insistence toward the apex — and toward the diamond waiting there.
The settings throughout reflect the era's greatest technical achievement: gems placed with a precision that modern manufacturing may attempt but rarely surpass. The milgrain edging, applied with jeweler's exactitude along every border, is the finishing signature of the finest Art Deco work — catching light at a different angle than the stones themselves, adding depth without competing.
This ring is ultimately about the Art Deco design and the exceptional workmanship behind it. The 1.40ct diamond with GIA certificate is a significant bonus.
We also offer a pair of Art Deco platinum earrings (item 7699) sharing virtually identical design vocabulary, ruby color, and workmanship. While we cannot confirm they were made as a set, the similarities are compelling.
