Antique Victorian pendant locket. Gold, silver, diamonds, hardstone. Made in France 19th century.
Measurements:
Weight is 26 grams. Length, not including the bale is approximately 1 5/8 inch (a little over 4cm) and with bale 2 1/8 inch (a little over 5.5cm).
Description :
Pendant locket is rectangular in shape with canted corners. The back is entirely made of a very generous black onyx, faceted as it turns towards the center. A border of diamonds is finely set in silver as was the custom at the time in order to show diamonds off to best effect in candle or gas light. Within is a raised plaque of white and carnelian-orange hardstone, the white carved to 'reveal' a winged cherub or Cupid rowing with a long oar and standing in a scallop sea-shell boat. His little cloth garment around his loins flies out behind him, giving an additional sense of movement. The carving is excellent with varying layers creating effects that range from fully opaque to totally diaphanous. Fine, fine detail - from his facial features to his chubby legs.
The back of the pendant inset with a gold oval framed locket. This can be used to hold a picture or lock of hair of a loved one. This romantic element of the pendant is perfectly matched by the romantic theme of Cupid riding the shell - see The Story below.
The bale (loop) of the pendant is looped through a gold ring set in the top of the pendant. It is an elongated fleur de lis in form, the front entirely set with diamonds. It is very generous in size, both matching the generous size of the pendant and allowing for a fairly hefty chain or ribbon to pass through it.
The quality of the workmanship in this pendant is outstanding. The carving of the cameo and the carving and use of the colored hardstones is fabulous - from their detail and artistry to the choice of the actual stones with their beautiful black and orange colors forming a perfect contrast to the white figure. The setting of the diamonds on the pendant and bale is vastly superior.
Marks and Metal:
French hallmarks for 18k gold, made in Paris: an eagle head for 18k gold. A maker's mark lozenge that is partially worn.
Condition:
Good. Please see enlarged pictures and don't hesitate to ask questions which we will do our best to answer.
NOTE: gold chain in some pictures is not included with this item.
THE STORY:
The image of Cupid or Eros rowing across the sea in a seashell was a popular motif, especially amongst Baroque and Renaissance artists. It symbolized love travelling across waters, to be spread across the waters and the playfulness of love. While sometimes Cupid rode on a dolphin, he was often portrayed rowing a shell, as in this case. This relates to his mother, Venus, who was born or emerged from a shell.
This wonderfully romantic theme is perfectly matched by the romance of the locket, hidden at the back of the pendant, but close to the wearer's heart. In addition, the quality of the French workmanship adds another element of romance to this exquisite jewel.
See Shirly Bury page 41 for a picture of a woman wearing a large pendant over a frieze of cupid, dolphins etc. Use to illustrate way it could be worn and the cupid-sea theme. (dated 1796
