Brenda Ginsberg Antique Jewelry
Antique Victorian chain bracelet 18k gold diamonds gems ruby sapphire GIA (7536)
Antique Victorian chain bracelet 18k gold diamonds gems ruby sapphire GIA (7536)
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Antique Victorian gemset curb link chain bracelet. 18k yellow gold, some silver, diamonds, natural ruby, blue sapphire, green sapphire, amethyst, and yellow paste. Made in the United Kingdom, late 19th century (circa 1880-1900).
Comes with GIA certificate stating that the ruby is a natural, unheated ruby originating in Thailand.
Measurements:
Weight is 21.4 grams. Approximately 7 1/2 inches (19.2cm) long. Ruby measurements: 5.50 X 5.15 X 3mm.
Description :
Timeless curb link chain bracelet. The links are very solid and sturdy and beautifully slide over one another.
The top is a wonderful line of colored gems and diamonds: Old mine and European cut gems are set in gold colettes with crimped upper edges. They are each surrounded by a border of small rosecut diamonds, set in silver. The silver is set over a thick layer of gold and is interrupted in the center with gold colettes. Gems of lovely variety of shades. They are blue sapphire, ruby, amethyst, green sapphire and bright yellow. Finally, antique paste. See note below on antique paste (only the yellow is paste).
The ruby has been appraised by the GIA and comes with a certificate. Green is medium green color. Blue sapphire is bright cornflower blue.
Ends are a tongue-in-groove clasp with an additional gold security chain.
Excellent quality workmanship and materials, versatile and as wearable today as it was well over 125 years ago.
Marks and Metal:
No marks found. Gold was electronically tested as 18k.
Condition:
Good with minor wear commensurate with age and use. Please see enlarged pictures and don't hesitate to ask questions which we will do our best to answer.
THE STORY:
Finding antique jewelry with this unusual gem combination is rare and makes the item all-the-more interesting as it gives us a little peep into the values of long ago.
In bygone centuries, combinations of gems and metals that seem unusual to us were perfectly acceptible and normal. We are quite accustomed to seeing the combination of yellow gold with a layer of silver for setting diamonds. The Victorians loved the contrast between red and green stones, coral and turquoise and other unusual eye-catching features. Paste was not seen as a substitute for 'real' gems, but a valid component of many fine jewels. We will probably never know why the jeweller who made this bracelet chose this particular combination, but it is certainly eye-catching and effective.
Since Georgian times, paste jewelry was a type of jewelry in its own, highly respected, right. It was not seen as a substitute for 'the real thing', but a valid and highly regarded jewelry form as the high quality of workmanship and other materials illustrate.
Paste was not quite the same as our modern glass, usually having a high lead content, to make it harder and thus allow a brighter polish and shine.
As we know, it was also the norm to set colored gems in gold, but diamonds in silver. This was in order to show off the diamonds to greater effect in candle or gas light. Often, there is a lot more silver with only the thinnest layer of gold behind it. However, in the case of this bracelet, the gold far outweighs the silver in thickness. See 'photo of side of bracelet.













