Antique Victorian cameo set Earrings Pendant diamonds pearls Parure French(7572)

Antique Victorian Napoleon III demi parure jewelry set. Consists of pendant and pendant earrings. 18k gold, diamonds, pearls and multi-layered hardstone cameos. Made in France, circa 1860-80's. 
 

Measurements:

Weight is 18.8 grams. Brooch is approximately  2 1/8 inches (5.5cm) long. Earrings 1 1/2 inches (4cm) long, not including the wires.

Description :

Multi-faceted jewels in the richest Napoleon III 2nd Empire style. 
The pendant with a large bale pave set with diamonds can contain a large chain or ribbon. The main body of the pendant that swings from a loop below the bale in concentric oval rings. Outer ring of pearls, middle ring of diamonds, containing the central cameo. The cardinal points with interlocking, scrolling gold stations leading to protruding fleur de lis, set with diamonds. 
The earrings are smaller versions of the pendant, with the swinging oval cameo beneath scrolling ribbon scrolls set with diamonds and pearls. The small round surmounts with pearls surrounded by diamonds. 

Each cameo is oval and carved in at least 4 layers - the bottom dark brown-black layer; white for necks, faces and some cloting detail; yellow-golden-brown, notably in hair; medium brown for clothing, including rosettes on shoulders. Variations of these tones add detail and interest. 
Given the curled hair, tiaras, hair combs and style of dress, the cameos depict women or queens of the First Empire era - possibly the Empress Josephine and women of her court. 
Women are shown in profile, with the ladie of the earrings being a true pair - one looking left and one looking right. 

Given the age this set was made, pearls are probably natural, but have not been tested. 
Simple gold wires re easy to insert and comfortable to wear.

Marks and Metal:

Pendant has French hallmarks on the two loops - one clearly the French eagle head for 18k gold, made in Paris, the other appears to be a maker's mark lozenge. An illegible, largely illegible mark on the back remnant of a pin. 
Earrings have French hallmarks on the wires - double owl marks, also for 18k gold. 
     

Condition:

Good with negligible wear commensurate with age.  Please see enlarged pictures and don't hesitate to ask questions which we will do our best to answer.   

THE STORY:

A similar set pendant can be seen on page 229 of Shirley Bury's book "Jewellery The International era 1789 - 1910" Volume I. 
From the heart of 19th-century Paris, a master jeweler worked tirelessly under the glow of gas lamps, perfecting a stunning creation—a piece destined to capture the very essence of grandeur and elegance. It was the late 1860s, a time when the reign of Napoleon III brought forth a resplendent aesthetic of opulence, and the jewelry he commissioned for his court and his beloved Empress Eugénie was a true reflection of his empire's strength and cultural prestige.
The cameos are no ordinary carvings. Crafted from layers of hardstone, each cameo was carved with incredible precision—each layer of stone revealing a different shade, from deep brown to golden-yellow, intricately carved to depict the graceful features of a woman of noble birth. The artist’s skilled hand had captured the essence of a queen, her flowing hair, her regal gown, and her poised profile—each cameo uniquely telling a story. The earrings were made as a true pair: one cameo facing left, the other right, as if they were two halves of the same royal soul.

These pieces, undoubtedly designed for the most sophisticated of women, were made at a time when the very nature of fashion was evolving. Napoleon III’s Second Empire style was one of extreme luxury and ornamentation, and these jewels embodied that spirit. Pearls, once an exclusive gem of the elite, were carefully selected, likely natural, though their age had left them untested. Diamonds sparkled in every crevice of the design, and the fine gold wires of the earrings were carefully crafted to ensure both comfort and elegance.

As the decades passed, this set traveled far from the salons of Paris. It passed through the hands of various collectors, each one captivated by its beauty and the rich history it represented. The marks on the jewelry—the French eagle head hallmark on the pendant, signifying the 18k gold standard—told the story of its origins. The double owl mark on the earrings confirmed their fine craftsmanship, a hallmark of French excellence in the art of jewelry making.