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Brenda Ginsberg Antiques & Jewelry

Antique Georgian Set Earrings Necklace Brooch Gold Coque de Perle Bride (7162)

Antique Georgian Set Earrings Necklace Brooch Gold Coque de Perle Bride (7162)

Regular price $9,250.00 USD
Regular price Sale price $9,250.00 USD
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Antique Georgian parure set including necklace, earrings and brooch. 22k gold, coque de perle. French or English circa 1760 - 1825.
Especially suitable for a bride.

Measurements: Necklace: Weight is 39.8 grams. Length is 18 1/4 inches (46.5cm)
Brooch weighs 23.2 grams. Length is 3 3/4 inches(9.5cm).
Earrings: weighs 14.1 grams. Length is 2 1/2 inches (6.5cm).
Description :
Coque de perle was the iridescent part of a nautilus shell found only in the Far East. From the mid 18th century, it was used as an alternative to 'real' pearls, usually set with cut steel and rarely in gold. It is usuallly dated 1740 - 1780, but I believe this set is a little later due to the repousse gold mounts. Either way, the set is over 200 years old and made during the Georgian era.

Highly impressive set consisting of a necklace, large brooch and long, pendant earrings.
The fitted box makes it clear that there was once one more part of this set. It could have been a chain or another small brooch. We will never know.

Ear pendant are very long and dangly. The upper sections are connected via small hooks to the bottom, larger drops. They can be worn alone by Day or more impressively with the entire drop, by night. For this reason, they are sometimes referred to as 'top drop' earrings.

Designed in the same way, is the large brooch, known as a stomacher during the 18th century. General triangular shape with the long end pointing down. It has a long, hinged, secure pin at the back with a simple c-clasp.

The necklace is possibly the most impressive part of all. Slightly graduated in size shells of oval iridescent nautilus set in beautiful, very fine repousse gold work. Links of scrolling gold connect each station.

Gold in matte and more shiny surface texture. The matte forms are lyre shaped, scrolling foliage; the shiny sections also scrolling foliage with shell shapes at meeting points. Beautiful patterns perfectly created enclose the iridescent pearls. Golden globules at accent points and twining gold wirework adds interest and extra solidity. Exquisite gold workmanship.

Necklace has simple hook closing feature. Earrings have replaced posts (would probably have been wires).
The set comes in its antique fitted box. Outside of leather, inside of velvet and silk. Embossed gold and tooled patterns.

The pearly white color and sheer romance of the set makes it perfect for a bride. Of course, it can be worn by anyone to any festive occasion. It makes a huge statement and the colors are sure to compliment every complexion and age.

Marks and Metal: As is to be expected, there are no marks on this jewelry. We electronically tested the gold to ensure metal purity.

Condition: Good with minor wear commensurate with age. Wear to box, but it is stable and very usable. Please see enlarged pictures and don't hesitate to ask questions which we will do our best to answer. 

A pair of 'pearl shell' earrings was listed in the inventory of Mme du Barry, the mistress of King Louis XV upon whom he lavished a fortune of jewelry. The inventory was a list of items that she claimed were stolen from her in 1791.
We are told that: Shell pearl is another name for coque de perle developed as an alternative to more
expensive pearl objects. The value of coque de perle was in the crafting of the
material, rather than the material itself. Coque de perle was difficult to
manufacture and could be quite fragile. The pearl-like stones were cut from the
Indian nautilus shell and are similar to blister pearls.

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