Brenda Ginsberg Antique Jewelry
Antique Georgian ring Diamonds Gold Silver Blue Enamel Old Cut diamonds (7445)
Antique Georgian ring Diamonds Gold Silver Blue Enamel Old Cut diamonds (7445)
Antique Georgian ring. Gold, silver, enamel and diamonds. Almost certainly made in England, circa 1780 and later exported to France.
Measurements: Weight is 5.9 grams. US size 6 (French 54). Length and width approximately 6/8th inch and 5/8th inch.
Description : Oval with slightly pointed ends, known as navette shaped. Outer border of small Old European Cut diamonds surrounds a ridge of gold enclosing an oval of royal blue guilloche enamel. 3 diamonds form a line in the center of the blue enamel ground, the larges is Old Mine Cut; all enclosed in silver, ridged colette settings, considered the best way to show off diamonds at that time.
Simple gold shank fans out at the shoulders.
Excellent quality workmanship - very finely set diamonds and great design, typical of the Georgian period.
The ring looks absolutely beautiful on the finger.
Marks and Metal: French hallmarks on the outside of the shank (band): Three-leaf clover for 9k gold; swan for silver of at least 800 standard, produced outside of France. Partially legible diamond-shaped mark, which might be a maker's mark.
Condition: Good with minor wear commensurate with age. Please see enlarged pictures and don't hesitate to ask questions which we will do our best to answer.
THE STORY:
Although this ring was bought in France, it came from a collection of antique rings, many of which were originally made in England. It matches many other similar examples and conforms to a trend of blue-enamel, diamond set rings made in the UK during the Georgian era. The quality of the workmanship, setting of the diamonds in silver and overall design all point to an English origin.
In the book Georgian Jewellery 1714 - 1830, Ginny Redingten Dawes and Olivia Collings tell us that in 1775 these royal blue enamelled and diamond rings became popular with British royalty. A number of similar examples are illustrated including an example made in France, where the fashion caught on and where they were known as 'bagues de firmament'. Literally translates to “rings of the heavens”. The blue enamel was intended to evoke the night sky, and the diamonds the stars.
The swan mark for silver indicates 'foreign workmanship' proving that the ring was made in the UK and during the course of its 250 year history, it made its way to France, where jewelry was and still is, fastidiously hallmarked. Hence the French hallmarks.