Antique Georgian pendeloque earrings. Gold and emeralds. Catalan - Made in Spain. Circa 1780.
Day/night; top/drop.
Measurements:
Weight is 20.3 grams. Length is 4inches (10cm). Approximately 6.00ct emeralds. Note: antique gems do not conform to modern formulae, so the measurement is approximate and should be seen as a guide or suggestion of magnitude.
Description :
Classic Iberian earrings. Extremely long. Composed of different sections that form a coherent whole.
Sections are joined via broad gold loops that allow a certain amount of flexibility and movement.
The upper section is a very elongated pear with top part in gold narrowing to a point, partially in repousse gold, partially set with square cut emeralds in raised colettes. The largest of these emeralds forms an openwork flower.
The upper section is attached via a broad hook or ribbon of gold and can quite easily be detached. In this way, the smaller, upper section of the earrings can be worn alone by day and the full earring - by night. (hence the term day/night or top/drop earrings).
The middle section is the biggest, with various openwork geometric and natural designs; the tops like raised, pointy butterfly wings, the center a similar flower to that of the upper section. A number of square emeralds of different sizes and raised to different heights above the gold mount. Some of the gold is crimped, some left flat.
On either side, at the bottom of this section, are drops that reflect the pointy form of the top section, but in reverse (with the points going down and the openwork flowers at the top). These are similarly adorned with repousse gold work. Similarly set with square emeralds. These drops have full movement and swing and sway as the wearer moves.
The bottom is composed of two, flexible parts, again with the elongated, pointy pear shape and with the terminal in repousse gold. Lovely detail of foliage.
The earrings are attached via wires that go from the back to the front of the ear lobe. This was the norm until the end of the 19th century. Hinged clasp might be a later addition, but it adds security by locking the wires closed.
Marks and Metal:
the gold of much jewelry from this period is not homogenous and tests at different levels of purity with our electronic tester. Gold does not test homogenously, so we will guarrantee at least 15k.
Condition:
Good with negligible wear commensurate with age. Please see enlarged pictures and don't hesitate to ask questions which we will do our best to answer.
THE STORY:
During the 18th century, the Iberian Peninsula (Spain and Portugal) were leaders in jewelry design and manufacture - all of it of course, done by hand. It was these countries that conquered much of South America and had access/controle over their rich gemological mines. The Spanish in Columbia controlled emeralds and so we can normally assume that emerald jewelry from this era comes from Spain.
In fact, this particular pair of earrings was bought in Barcelona, Spain, so there is no question about their origin.
We found the identical pair of earrings in the book Georgian Jewellery 1714 - 1830 by Ginny Redington Dawes with Livia Collings (page 109 - see 'photos).
While many pairs of Iberian earrings are relatively unwearable, this pair of earrings is quite practical and versatile, making them a must for the lover of rare antique jewelry and old emeralds. Amazing that they are in such great shape after 250 years.
