Antique Georgian earrings. Gold, silver and diamonds. Made in France early 19th century.
Measurements:
Total Weight is 9.6 grams. Length is 2 inches (a little over 2cm).
Description :
Surmounts are a very simple 18k gold wire that goes from the back to the front of the ear - as did all antique earrings that are in their original form. The little clasp/catch of the wire is directly behind a very old gently faceted diamond, rose-cut.
Like almost all antique jewelry, diamonds were set in silver placed over a layer of gold. The silver was believed to show the diamonds off to greater effect, while the gold protected the wearer from potential tarnish on their skin or clothes. Nips and tucks to reinforce the silver Colette settings. Strong gold support from behind. Wires connected to hinges that connect behind them to a broad band of gold.
The drops are connected via loops at their tops. These wires of the surmounts simply thread through the loops. Easy peasy. The drops are beautifully articulated: every single section can move freely and independently. There are 4 gradated sections - each consisting of a trio of diamonds, the central one placed slightly higher than those adjacent to it. Connected via loops. At the bottom is a single, larger slightly pear-shaped drop.
Luxurious feel thanks to the great workmanship and flexibility of the earrings. Versatile and wearable and have a great look.
See explanation of Top-Drop and Day-Night earrings below. It is very easy to separate the component parts of these earrings and wear the tops by day and the full ensemble by night. Of course, you can wear the whole earring by day as well, especially if you want that luxurious look and dramatic effect.
Marks and Metal:
There are hallmarks on the wires of the surmount and on the loops that connect the drops to the tops. The marks on the wires: eagle head and a diamond-shaped lozenge for the maker. The loops have the swan and horse head marks for silver (800) and 18k gold. We tested the gold and while the wires were clearly 18k, the backs of the silver were not as clear, so we will guarantee them as 14 and not 18k despite their French hallmarks.
Condition:
Good with minor wear commensurate with age. Please see enlarged pictures and don't hesitate to ask questions which we will do our best to answer.
THE STORY:
Antique jewelry was often made to be very versatile. Jewels could convert from one form and use to another for example a necklace that converted to a tiara or a bracelet and brooches. A common use of earrings was to have a small surmount connected to a much more elaborate drop. The surmount could be worn alone by day and the full jewel together at night for an impressive and dramatic effect. These earrings are referred to as Top-Drop or Day-Night earrings for obvious reason.
The lack of homogeneity in the gold is a sure sign that the earrings are very old. 200 or more years ago, goldsmiths did not have computers and modern technology to check gold purity. One could, and often does find a mixture of purities in the same item. Gold was taken from one item, melted down and mixed with gold from another item to make something new. Thus, you can check a piece of antique jewelry and get various readings, depending on where you check the metal. A generally 18k gold chain necklace might measure 22k in one place and 17k in another. The horse head mark was used in France from 1838 and used to denote 18k gold.