Antique Georgian aigrette brooch diamonds silver gold French feathers bow (7442)

Antique Georgian brooch. Diamonds gold silver. Made circa 1810-1820.  Comes from France. Unisex.

Measurements: Weight is 14.7 grams. Approximate length is 2 inches (a little over 5cm). 

Description : A rare Georgian brooch in the form of an aigrette or feather brooch, the feather tied with a ribboned bow knot at its base. The feather fans out and curls over towards the top. Curling feathers, pave-set with diamonds alternate with knife-edge lines of gold, representing curling stems, with foliage and flowers in diamonds set along each one. Some of the diamonds in this series, representing buds or flowers are colette set in gold. The rest of the setting is in silver, which was the norm at that time - silver considered the best metal to show diamonds off to best effect in candle light. A larger old cut diamond forms the center of the ribboned bow. It is prong set amongst a rope-twist silver border. 

When we turn the brooch over and look at the back, we see that the pave-set diamonds are entirely set in silver; the 'lines' supporting foliage and flowers are of gold and somewhat 'higher' in relief than the silver. This meant that only the gold should have contact with the clothing/skin of the wearer. 
The pin is likely a replacement. It is gold and hinged and possibly dates to the late 19th - early 20th century. 
There is another interesting feature at the back: next to the hinged side of the pin is a gold flower with silver 'bolts', firmly attached to the back. I believe that this was once a hair ornament - either a comb or attached to the front of a tiara or bandau. The flower just mentioned was the original attachment to the hair ornament, discarded/removed to make place for the brooch's pin. 

Marks and Metal:  The pin is marked with a maker's lozenge and an ET mark. The latter indicates an item of unknown origin, probably imported to France. The marks probably refer to the pin, while the original brooch has no marks. Our appraiser used an electronic tester and also found that true to much Georgian jewelry, the gold is not homogenous. The purity of the gold varied according to the location and as mentioned, the pin is probably a replacement (of low quality gold or metal). 

Condition: Good with minor wear commensurate with age.  Please see enlarged pictures and don't hesitate to ask questions which we will do our best to answer. 

THE STORY: The name Aigrette derives from the word egret - a bird with lovely white plumage. Jewelled feathers and real feathers were set in turbans of maharajas and in the bandaus and tiaras of fancy ladies. They were also worn as brooches and this jewel might have done duty as either or both. 
Over the centuries, jewelry was often converted beyond recognition to other forms in accordance with new fashions. We are really lucky that this brooch has retained its original shape, metal and diamonds. 
The strong design and aesthetic appeal make this brooch highly suitable for a man or a woman: we can see a wealthy aristocrat of either gender sporting this jewel - either as a feather in a head dress or as an adornment on a bodice, lapel or shoulder. 
As marvellous and imaginative today as it was over 200 years ago.