Antique Georgian long muff long guard chain or sautoir. 18k gold (see below).
Measurements:
Weight is 38.1 grams. 46 1/4 inches (117.5cm) long.
Description :
composed of 4 different kinds of loops.
A line of horizontal loops held between smaller vertical loops. The horizontal loops are alternating
smoothe and stippled/textured parallel loops. Stippled with little globules, gradated in size with largest in the middle of the band.
On either side of these horizontal loops is a border of smaller loops at right angles to those in the middle. Again, alternating stippled and smoothe loops, but much smaller than those in the centre.
Interesting play of light on both the smoothe loops and the stippled loops - the gold reflecting light softly in the latter and gleaming brighter in the former.
The overall result is like a beautiful braid.
The clasp is a replacement - a filigree globe set with paste.
Marks and Metal:
No marks found. Gold was tested as 18k in the chain. Clasp tested as higher gold.
Condition:
Minor dings to some links. Please see enlarged pictures and don't hesitate to ask questions which we will do our best to answer.
THE STORY:
In cold weather, ladies carried muffs - usually a cylinder or tube of fur in which to keep their hands warm. Holding the muff to their person was a long chain, the muff chain, worn around the neck and preventing the muff from falling to the ground. These chains were often used to hold watches, vinaigrettes (smelling salts) or other utensils. They are incredibly versatile and can be worn singly - very long with the utensil tucked into the waist band or lower pocket or wound multiple times around the neck.
Muff chains in 18k gold are rare and this was probably owned by a very wealthy woman. The fact that it survived over 200 years, shows that the family had no need to melt, sell or replace it.
This particular muff chain is very unusual because of the complex construction and composition with so many different links. Normally, muff chains were made of identical links, whereas here we have a number of different links with different surfaces and sizes arranged in a complex pattern that must have taken an extraordinarily long time to put together at a time when there were no machines to do the work and it was all done by hand. Each link was arranged at the correct angle and attached appropriately to its neighbours.
