Antique, late Victorian to Edwardian / Belle Epoque bracelet bangle. Diamonds, rubies, gold, silver. Made circa 1890's to 1920. Exact origin unknown.
GIA ruby appraisal for Burma rubies, no heat. Also independent gemological appraisal.
Measurements:
Weight is 28.0 grams. A tad under 7 1/2 inches (19cm) long.
67 oval and round mixed cut rubies.
166 single and Old Mine Cut diamonds plus 2 baguette cut diamonds. Total diamonds 3.55-4ct. Rubies total 7.5 - 9.27ct.
Gems were graded within the mounts, so must be considered approximations. We have included a range of measurements.
Description :
The decorative center sitting on top of the arm/wrist leads to an elegant band of rubies and diamonds, tapering towards the clasp. The central section is slightly raised above the level of the band. It is designed with the largest 5 rubies forming a cross surrounded by diamonds. On either side, adjoining the band, are scrolls set with raised rubies within a semi-circle of diamonds. A line of tapering rubies conforming to the tapering band, is flanked on either side by a leaf-shaped cell, containing a diamond.
Gems fit snugly one next to the other. Prongs or claws hold gems: rubies in gold, diamonds in silver. For centuries, this was the recognized method of showing colored stones and diamonds off to best effect.
The back has a layer of gold to protect the wearer's clothes and skin from the effect of tarnishing silver.
A secure hidden clasp (tongue and groove) and safety catch are both in gold.
The bracelet is fully articulated, wrapping around the wrist and conforming to every nuance of the body's shape.
Beautiful workmanship. Luxurious and rich.
Marks and Metal:
Scratched 181? on tongue of clasp is most likely an inventory number of a previous owner.
As with most authentic antique construction with gold over a silver base, we cannot get a homogenous testing result for the metal. It is possible to test the clasp, which shows 18k gold.
Condition:
Good with negligible wear commensurate with age. Please see enlarged pictures and don't hesitate to ask questions which we will do our best to answer.
THE STORY:
Many collectors consider the late Victorian and Belle Époque era a high point of intricate, jewel-encrusted craftsmanship — this bracelet shows why. It combines both great design and craftsmanship admirably. On the one hand, we have the strong, striking design boldly setting off the deep pink-red color of the rubies against the sparkle of the diamonds. On the other hand, we have great workmanship in the sublime flexibility of the bracelet, which, articulated like a snake, winds and curves around the arm. Nudge it gently with your fingers and feel how fully it responds - bending and twisting while maintaining the fine setting of the gems.
There are rubies and there are rubies. Two factors that most contribute to their value are origin and treatment. While most rubies are considered beautiful, the most highly regarded rubies are those that originate in Burma. Alongside origin is the question whether the ruby was treated in some way to enhance its appearance. Treatment, especially heat treatment, is considered 'normal', but an untreated ruby, that needed no aid outside Mother Nature, has that special cachet. Untreated Burmese rubies have the prestige and distinction of the Holy Grail. GIA has confirmed these rubies as Burmese in origin, with no evidence of heat treatment.
Don't take anybody's word for these qualities of a ruby. Only a lab with sophisticated equipment, like the GIA, can verify these features.
Man's imagination and Nature's benevolence combined in a spectacular, luxurious bracelet, suitable for any royal occasion. For over a century, generations of wealthy women have enjoyed wearing and taken excellent care of this beautiful piece of jewelry. Now it can be your turn to do the same.
