Antique archer's ring. 22k gold, enamel, diamonds. Made in India 19th century - early 20th century.
Measurements:
Weight is 5.6 grams. A little over a US size 6.5.
Description :
Archery has long been associated with nobles and rulers in Mughal India. The Archer's ring is not exclusive to India, but was originated in China and existed in Turkey and Persia as well.
The archer's ring was worn on the thumb and has a different form to regular finger rings. The bezel (top) of the ring tapers to a rounded 'v'. The point of the 'v' is worn towards the wrist when the ring is actually used in archery. When used for ceremonial or status purposes, it points towards the tip of the thumb.
This elegantly curved archery ring in high karat gold, enameled in blue with traces of red enamel on the edges. The front of the bezel with a flowerhead inlaid with Polki (gently cut and polished) diamonds. See below.
Wear it on an finger of your choice and in either direction. - looks great on the hand. Unisex - suits either a man or a woman.
This ring is almost identical-looking to an example in green enamel sold at Bonhams, June 2020 with estimate of GBP 3000.00 - 5000.00 This ring is dated 19th century.
Another similar ring is shown on page 223 of the book 'Indian Jewellery Dance of the Peacock' by Usha R Bala Krishnan and Meera Sushil Kumar.
Marks and Metal:
No marks, as expected of antique Indian jewelry. Due to the rich enamel, it's difficult to get an exact electronic reading of the gold, but it is high - approximately 18-22k. The metal holding the diamonds is lower, which is typical for additional strength.
Condition:
Good with wear to enamel - shown highly magnified in pictures. Please see enlarged pictures and don't hesitate to ask questions which we will do our best to answer.
Please note: the enlarged pictures show traces of red enamel. With the naked eye, these are not visible.
THE STORY:
Polki set diamonds: Indians refer to flat, unfaceted diamonds as 'polki' or 'uncut'. Traditionally in India, they are set in gold, with the gold pulled up around the diamonds, forming a cell that holds the stones. Polki diamonds are the high end of Indian jewelry (compared to kundan, which might include glass and lesser gems), and have a high value because of the intrinsic value of the gold and diamonds. While the diamonds are called 'uncut', they are in fact simply cut and polished, but they do not comply with the 4 C's as with most western jewelry. Some Polki diamonds resemble rose-cuts while others are more flat.
Archer's rings were worn to protect the inside of the thumb. They could have also been worn as a costume accessory, elaborately decorated with fine inlays.
An archer's ring, or thumb ring, is a protective device worn on the thumb of the drawing hand to protect it from the bowstring, particularly when using a thumb draw technique. They are also worn for status and prestige, often elaborately decorated with symbols to convey rank or ward off evil. Historically, archers' rings have been used in various cultures, including those in Asia and northern Africa, and are still used today by archers practicing certain styles.
A thumb ring provided the archer with a firmer grip of the bowstring. As archery was considered a noble sporting exercise, thumb rings, often carried ostentatiously on strings hung from the belt, were worn as symbols of elevated social status.
As mentioned, this ring looks great on any finger. Feel like a Maharaja with this ring on your finger.
