Antique Georgian - early Victorian necklace. Gold, silver, diamonds. Made early 19th century. France.
Measurements:
Weight is 29.1 grams. Approximately 14 14 inches (36cm) long. Central drop is approximately 1 /4 inches long. Diamonds 2.5-3.0ct with the largest diamond over 0.50 ct.
Description :
Subtle and delicate - designed to twinkle around the neck. With narrow, tapering drops cascading beneath foliage. The center of the necklace is a twig of foliage, set asymmetrically, curling and twirling, in different forms, entirely covered by extremely finely pave set diamonds. While the diamonds are set in silver, we see gold stems peeping through the foliage where it is not adorned with diamonds. Beneath the leaves is a long drop of gradated diamonds, decreasing in size towards the bottom and finally with an elongated tear-shaped that points down. The largest of the diamonds is a beauty - Old European cut, cushiony and lovely color.
Linked by loops to the next section which is composed of lines of old European cut and rose cut diamonds, as always, set in silver. These lead to the next station, a pair of drops, similar, but somewhat smaller than the center. The 'smaller' siblings of the central drop. Another line of diamonds, decreasing in size leads to the final lateral drops, which is simplified versions of the first - tiny leaves with long drops ending in an elongated tear. Beyond this, the section of the necklace that leads to the clasp is quite fascinating. Again, it tapers in size towards the back. However, it is composed of small diamond stations and elongated tears, set at right angles to those on the drops. Some of the diamonds are larger and stand out more until the clasp is reached.
Similar designs are shown in Henri Vever's book on French jewelry of the 19th century for example page 518.
The clasp is a long, rectangular tongue-in-groove with the box holding the tongue being unusually long and slender and also pave set with diamonds, including one raised above the level of the others for additional interest at the back of the neck. The tongue has a raised diamond on it's back (Colette set in silver over gold). When depressed (pushed down), it opens the clasp very easily making the wearing of this necklace simple. A small safety chain for additional security.
One of the fascinating features of this necklace is the pair of drops adjacent to the center. These are attached via long, curved gold hooks on the backs of the line of diamonds. Clearly, they can be removed very easily and used as earrings.
If we look carefully at the back of all 3 central stations, we see mechanisms for attaching them to another mount, in all likelihood a tiara. One of the magical and impressive features of jewelry from this period is just how versatile it was - one item could be worn in so many ways. A necklace could convert to a tiara and or a pair of earrings. Today, there are no extra mounts, but you could very easily wear the secondary drops as earrings. (just add a post or wire).
The diamonds are set in silver as was the custom at the time. The silver is set over gold, as was also the norm and prevented tarnish from marking either the skin or fabric of the clothes.
Elegant tapering, elongated theme, using the very delicacy of the design and intermittent variations to attract the eye as the diamonds subtly twinkle around the neck.
Marks and Metal:
Tongue of clasp has French seashell and swan marks for 14k gold and silver respectively.
Condition:
Good with negligible wear commensurate with age. Please see enlarged pictures and don't hesitate to ask questions which we will do our best to answer.
THE STORY:
Versatility was a common advantage of antique jewelry, especially the brilliant French jewelry that outshone every other country in the innovation and technical skill of their goldsmiths and jewelers during the 19th century. In France, leaders such as Napoleon Bonaparte and his nephew Napoleon III actively encouraged not just the wearing of luxurious jewels, but luxurious jewelry manufacturing. Beautifully set diamonds and delicate foliate design are wonderful examples of this workmanship and as wearable today as almost 200 years ago.
