Antique Art Nouveau ring. 18k yellow gold and pink tourmaline. Made in France, circa 1895-1905.
Measurements:
Weight is 8.4 grams. A little under a US size 7 (6 3/4).
Description :
Stirrup ring, the band rising up and arching towards the center, narrowing as it moves back along the shank. Set with a cabochon pink tourmaline. Front and back of the tourmaline are a chased gold pair of flowers, possibly poppies, very typical of the Art Nouveau period and associated with dreams. The shoulders and upper section of the band are modelled as the heads of young women. Oval faces, downcast eyes with a serene or dreamy expression, popular in Art Nouveau jewelry and echoing the poppy theme. Hair is fluted and wraps around the face before the two sides meet, fold over one another like a spiraling helix.
Marks and Metal:
French owl mark indicating 18k gold. The inside of the ring has an engraved mark that looks like a Z - of unknown significance.
Condition:
Good with minor wear commensurate with age. Band is solid and secure. No visible signs of damage or restoration. Please see enlarged pictures and don't hesitate to ask questions which we will do our best to answer.
THE STORY:
Figural head rings, popular during the Art Nouveau era usually merged the human form and natural objects such as flowers. This symbolized the unity of woman and nature, mysticism and spiritualism (popular in the era) and the idealized feminine as a force of creative power.
French examples from circa 1895–1905 are particularly sought after for their sculptural modeling and symbolic detail. This ring beautifully embodies those qualities, with its serene female faces and flowing, organic lines.
Few figural rings from this era remain. In the first place, the Art Nouveau period was short and to some extent limited to Paris and areas influenced by Paris (such as Belgium, Pforzheim in Germany and Newark NJ in the USA). Not only was little true Art Nouveau jewelry made, but of that created, some was melted to create more hum-drum, conventional and conformist jewelry.
