Antique, Victorian Art Nouveau brooch. 18k yellow gold, rubies, pearls, emeralds, diamonds and plique-a-jour enamel. Made in France circa 1890 - 1905.
Measurements:
Weight is 5.3 grams. length is 1 5/8 inches (4.5cm)
Description :
An exceptional brooch in the form of a pair of ethereal butterflies. Delicate, transparent enamel stretches across gold cells with light coming from behind resulting in a shimmering appearance. The combination of gold and green is a vision of nature. Colored gems and pearls form the details of the head, abdomen and thorax of the beautiful flying insects. Pearls from this period were natural (but these have not been tested). Naturalistic details from the delicate antennae to the emerald-green eyes. Turning the brooch over, we see the immaculate work and continued fine detail of the insects, evidence of a very high caliber workshop.
Hinged pin with c-clasp and conical cap to prevent the wearer from pricking themselves.
An exceptional brooch of exceptional workmanship. Suitable for wear by anyone, male or female.
Marks and Metal:
French owl mark on the C of the clasp and another mark on the pin (not clearly legible).
Condition:
Good with negligible wear commensurate with age. No damage found. Please see enlarged pictures and don't hesitate to ask questions which we will do our best to answer.
THE STORY:
Plique-à-jour - French for 'letting in daylight'—is the most challenging of all enameling techniques. Unlike traditional enamels, it has no metal backing; the glass is held in place solely by the surface tension of the gold frame. The light-filled, luminous enamel is unparalleled by any other enameling technique. Stained glass techniques of the Middle Ages were revived during the late 19th century by masters such as René Lalique, this technique remains incredibly rare due to its extreme fragility and the high level of skill required to survive the kiln. This piece is a survivor of a golden age of French craftsmanship.