Antique Victorian Etruscan Revival gold necklace. Yellow gold. Origin not known - possibly Italy or England with a partially replaced clasp.
Measurements:
Weight is 15.9 grams. 15.5 inches (39.5cm) long.
Description :
Riviere beaded necklace with largest gold beads in the center, tapering towards the clasp. Each round gold bead has very fine filigree rope patterns, 'C' shapes crossing one another. Quality of wirework is extremely fine, creating an interesting texture that contributes to the play of light on the gold. So fine that a loupe is needed to see the details. Clasp with barrel on one side and push-down tongue on the other. The gold clasp is appropriate, but might be a replacement.
Excellent workmanship. Classic design that is totally versatile and will match any outfit. Understated and classy.
Marks and Metal:
As expected, the beads are not marked. A number of the beads were electronically tested. The majority of beads are approximately 14.5 - 15k. Some of the beads, especially the smaller ones near the ends tested 20k and even 21k. While the push-button of the clasp is marked 14k on one side, that part of the clasp (tongue or rod) was tested as about 16.5k; the barrel of the clasp which appears to be a replacement tested as 18k.
Please see The Story below. The cord on which the beads are threaded is silver.
Condition:
Generally good condition. Clasp may be a replacement. Please see enlarged pictures and don't hesitate to ask questions which we will do our best to answer.
THE STORY:
The Ancient Etruscans mastered goldwork long before the Greeks and Romans, leaving behind jewelry of astonishing delicacy. Their techniques were lost for centuries until the mid‑19th century, when Italian goldsmith Fortunato Pio Castellani led a revival of these ancient methods. The resulting “Etruscan Revival” pieces echoed the filigree and granulation that defined the originals.
This necklace is a beautiful example of that tradition, its beads decorated with the same meticulous filigree that captivated Castellani. As with much antique jewelry, the gold is not perfectly uniform. Goldsmiths of earlier centuries often melted together coins, old earrings, and other scraps, creating alloys that varied slightly from one spot to another. The beads here were clearly made by the same hand, yet some test at an even higher purity—a delightful surprise.
While the Italians re-introduced filigree work of this sort, the presence of 15k gold suggests a possible English connection. The piece sits at the crossroads of two traditions, inviting you to decide where its story truly begins.
