Antique Georgian Roman mosaic. Gold and micromosaic (micro mosaic). Probably made in Italy late 18th - early 19th century.
Measurements:
Weight is 18.4 grams. Length 1 1/2 inches.
Description :
This jewel can be used as a brooch, a pendant and a locket. Micromosaic plaques, also called Roman micromosaics were made from tiny glass tesserae set in copper/stone/other backings. The tesserae are so finely set that they give the appearance of a painting. This micromosaic represents a Mallard duck standing in profile. Yellow beak and eyes, green head and neck with a white collar leading to a brown, tan and white body with blue-tipped wings. Background of 'earth, lawn and dark sky tones'. The sky in black with tesserae forming concentric arches around the duck. The ground and grass go in a horizontal direction, giving the appearance of continuation. Tesserae of the Mallard in various directions and sizes appropriate to the form they are representing.
The micromosaic is an oval shape. From above we see that it is set in a simple, smooth, gold mount on two levels - one directly encircling the duck and one a step lower. Gold borders with simple bright cut designs, so fine that the naked eye cannot distinguish the detail. This is typical of Georgian work as is the simple gold mount in high karat gold (see metals below). Beautiful understated eternal.
At the back, we see the continuation of the mount with a hinged pin for wearing as a brooch. The pin is very likely a replacement, very common with jewelry of this age. The simple c-clasp is typically Georgian.
A long tubular sleeve with a large bale has been set over the pin. This is probably a later addition, but it adds to the versatility of the piece and can be simply slipped off when not in use.
The back of the brooch contains a locket for holding a portrait or lock of hair of a loved one. It is easily removed and then re-inserted.
The quality of this micromosaic is very good with the teeny-tiny tesserae very closely set. Wonderful coloring and craftsmanship. Understated elegance of the gold mount that gleams as it reflects the high karat purity.
Marks and Metal:
No marks. The original gold mount of the brooch was electronically tested as 20-21karats. High Karat gold was a typical feature of Georgian jewelry. The other parts of the brooch tested somewhat lower: the sleeve of the bale and pin, which are not original to the brooch are not gold. The bale (large loop), also an addition is 14k. The inner gold ring that encloses the locket at the back of the brooch tests differently in different spots - from 9 to 12 to 14k.
Condition:
Good with some minor issues as follows: replaced pin; one or two minute gaps in the tesserae, not at all visible with the naked eye. These could be original to the way the tesserae were set or less possibly, missing bits. Please see enlarged pictures and don't hesitate to ask questions which we will do our best to answer.
THE STORY:
Micromosaics became very popular from the Georgian period onwards when sons of wealthy families were sent on the Grand Tour to finish their education. Italy was a choice watering hole for many reasons and these young men (and rarely women) were imbued with history and culture. At the same time Italian jewelers were looking at their own history and trying to re-create the jewelry methods of the past. Micromosaics were a popular form. Wealthy travelers brought them home to Britain as souvenirs. The trend peaked 1780 - 1830 which includes the Georgian and Regency eras.
Mallards were a popular theme with the Georgians and Victorians. They were bright and colorful, instantly recognizable and symbolically associated with nature, family and tranquility.
