Antique Victorian pendant brooch enhancer. 18k gold and silver, diamonds. Made in France, after 1838.
Measurements:
Weight is 22.2 grams. Length 2 3/8 inch (6.5cm).
Description :
Superbly versatile - can be worn as a pendant, a brooch or an enhancer. Very royal appearance: oval in shape with a matching bale (loop) with fleur de lis top. Balanced by a diamond drop suspended at the bottom. The oval shape is composed of openwork, concentric rings with a line of central diamonds in the center. The outer rings of diamonds appear to float in the air. They are in fact set on narrow, sturdy gold mounts, largely hidden behind the diamonds. The inner ring that encloses the line of larger gems is like a flower composed of many petals, each petal set with a number of rose cut diamonds. The central diamonds are cushiony Old Mine cuts as is the suspended drop.
The top and bottom edge of the outer ring are adorned with another botanic structure - leaves or flowers, set with diamonds. The outer rings are somewhat recessed with the central stones protruding forwards .
During the 19th century, it was customary to set diamonds in silver in order to show them off to better effect in candle or gas light. Behind the silver is a sturdy gold mount, which protected skin and clothes from tarnish.
Jewelry was often worn on ribbons at that time and the large bale can accommodate a variety of chains or ribbons. The hinged pin with a c-clasp and point protected from pricking the wearer by a gold cap. Below the bale is a long, curved hook, used for attaching the jewel to a necklace.
Marks and Metal:
Horse head marks used for 18k gold from 1838 on the bale and the pin. One of the tiny loops has a makers mark lozenge. One of the letters of the maker mark appears to be a G.
Condition:
Good with negligible wear commensurate with age. Please see enlarged pictures and don't hesitate to ask questions which we will do our best to answer.
THE STORY:
This beautiful and versatile jewel came from the personal collection of a sophisticated Parisienne. While we do not know who owned it before that person, the quality of workmanship, size and sheer number of diamonds are evidence of an important history. Many generations have worn, enjoyed and most importantly, taken care of this item so that it has come to us in as close to perfect condition as is possible after close on 200 years. Timeless, classic and as wearable today as it was at that time.