Antique, Art Deco ring. 18k gold, platinum, diamonds and sapphire. Made in France, circa 1925.
Comes with Paris France certificate from GEM PARIS Laboratoire Gemmologique de Paris for sapphire and mentioning the 10 diamonds. (see 'photo).
Measurements:
Weight is 5.3 grams. Approximately US size 6 1/4. Length of bezel 16.5mm. Sapphire measures 6.7 X 6.1 X 3.9mm.
Description :
Rectangular shaped bezel with squares at top and bottom protruding slightly. The sapphire is described as rectangular with cut corners by the laboratory - it can also be seen as a rounded oval. The color is a lovely deep blue and it shows with a nice gleam. The sapphire is closely bordered by 10 diamonds - those that protrude slightly at top and bottom are also raised in a platinum bezel above the height of the others and border closely on the sapphire, forming a line of bigger gems within the context of the rectangular setting. In effect, it looks both like a rectangle, but also as a series of lines of gems. The whole bezel is raised up by a curling gallery with broad 'u' shapes at the bottom and trefoil, flower-like tops. All this over a sturdy band that connects to the simple shank. The openwork gallery allows light to enter from behind the gems, adding to shine and gleam.
Per gemological laboratory, sapphire is natural corundum (sapphire), rectangular with cut corners, stepped Emerald cut and shows no indications of modification or heating. Origin Sri Lanka (Ceylon).
Diamonds are old European cut and weigh approximately 1.15ct.
Great, geometric design is classic Art Deco. While the ring may have been made for a woman originally, the strength of the design makes it suitable for a man as well. It is also suitable to wear as an engagement ring if so desired.
Marks and Metal:
Outside of the shank with maker's mark lozenge with initials appearing to be VG. Marked for platinum and gold with dog's head (platinum) and eagle's head (gold). See comment on mark in 'the story' below.
Condition:
Good with negligible wear commensurate with age. Please see enlarged pictures and don't hesitate to ask questions which we will do our best to answer.
THE STORY:
The use of both the dog and eagle heads to indicate both platinum and gold was used since 1912. Interestingly, the fastidious French don't have a single mark for platinum and gold. The direction and placement of the two heads adds information about the relative quantities of each metal. In this instance, both heads are looking in the same direction and this means that there is between 50-69% platinum and between 50-31% gold.
Art Deco jewelry echoed the prevailing artistic sensibility of the 1920's - a reaction to the delicate, flowery and overly-feminine Art Nouveau and Belle Epoque styles. It had strong geometric forms that we see in the fabulous building of New York City and a culture of slightly mixing genders - such as the strong, muscled women shown in reliefs on buildings and other art forms. In addition, the 1920-30's saw a culmination of technical knowledge and ability where great feats of jewelry making were accomplished, before an age of mass-production and finances over quality took over. So, we have great design and great quality workmanship combining to one of the most sought-after eras of jewelry production. It's very lucky to find a truly authentic Art Deco ring.
A note on color: I wore the ring outside in the sunshine and was amazed at how brilliantly it shone - the gleam of the sapphire and the twinkling sparkle of the diamonds in natural daylight are way beyond the colors taken indoors.
