Antique Victorian Classic Roman and Renaissance Revival pendant. 18k gold, diamonds, enamel and hardstone cameo. Made in Paris by Jules Wiese circa 1840-60's.
Measurements:
Weight is 14.5 grams. 2 1/4 inches (6cm) long.
Description :
An oval cameo in a gold mount with rich enamelling and diamonds. Classic Roman Revival both in subject and workmanship. The cameo is superbly carved and depicts a young Hercules. He holds his famous club with which he stunned the Nemean Lion before he overcame it. The lion's head can be see behind his back and his sharp-clawed paws and pelt swing fore and aft. The cameo is carved from a dark brown and white hardstone agate. The details are exquisite - shown magnified in the pictures. The superb cameo is mounted in 18k gold with a bright and lively design in the Renaissance Revival taste popular at the time. Gold superbly enamelled in green, red, blue (royal and sky blue) and white in scrolls and beautiful swags of pale blue on gold on square buttresses, each collet set with a diamond. A pair of swinging, long gold rods suspended on either side of the oval pendant support similarly mounted diamonds with enamelled beading in blue and black around them. Finally, suspended from loops at the bottom is an enamelled scrolling square with botanic theme, set in the center with a diamond. These parts add movement to the pendant. The pendant has 3 loops. An upper bale on a hinge that can fold back when not in use. A pair of small gold loops on the sides, near the top which could be attached to a chain or ribbon. Our last picture of a famous Elizabethan Renaissance jewel, known is the Francis Drake jewel is shown to illustrate the influence of the Renaissance on the work of fantastic Revival craftsmen like Jules Wiese. Looking at the details, it could almost have been done by the same hand. Quality of this pendant is outstanding from the carved cameo to the fabulous design and enamelled workmanship.
Marks and Metal:
The loop on the right (when you are looking at the back of the pendant) has two French owl hallmarks for 18k gold. The bale/loop on top also has this mark and another illegible mark. A square base with a diamond on the lower right (when looking from the front, approximately 5 o'clock) has the Jules Wiese lozenge maker's mark. The back of the cameo has a scratched number 1148.5 which is most likely an inventory number of a previous owner.
Condition:
Good with negligible wear commensurate with age. Please see enlarged pictures and don't hesitate to ask questions which we will do our best to answer. A nice lady wrote to me: depicts Omphale wearing Hercules’ lion pelt and holding his club. Their story is very interesting and there is a lot of info on the subject . Thank you.
