Medieval/Renaissance/Gothic Revival antique Victorian bracelet. Gold, silver, amethysts, garnets, enamel. Made in Paris, France, circa 1850 - 60 by Jules Wiese. Signed.
Measurements:
Weight is 73 grams. 7 inches long (18cm). 1 1/2 inches wide. 98.04ct amethysts.
Description :
Bold, strong statement bracelet. It consists of 6 large oval links with fleur-de-lis edges and pointy ends on either side. These are joined by small daisies - a pair between each large oval.
The large stations are each set with a gorgeous, deep purple, oval amethyst that floats in a concave mount with green guilloche enamel leading to a gold outer border. Amethysts of great quality and well-matched. As mentioned, fleur-de-lis at either end. The latter with protruding half globes and bright cut beading. The narrower sides of the large oval with matching, reverse-shaped gold overlay, reminiscent of a suit of armor, with similar half globes and bright cut beading.
The small flowers between each section connect the larger ovals. They are joined via links, which allows flexibility to the bracelet. Each flower, with gold outer border to the white-enamelled petals, with a cabochon garnet in the center.
Garnets are also well-matched.
A gold safety chain, probably a later addition, added for security purposes.
Original leather fitted box with name of original owner, Marthe embossed on the top. Within, inside the lid is name of the retailer Molgatini Orleans.
Marks and Metal:
Tongue of clasp is marked with maker's mark lozenge JW for Jules Wiese, as well as French eagle mark for 18k gold. The opposite side has two eagle head marks.
Condition:
Good with minor wear commensurate with age and use. Please see enlarged pictures and don't hesitate to ask questions which we will do our best to answer.
THE STORY:
Jules Wiese and after 1880, his son Louis, were possibly two of the most influential and important jewellers in Paris during the 19th century. Initially working for such great names as Forment-Meurice, Jules Weise eventually began using his own name. His influence is strongly felt in the jewellery, especially the Gothic, Medieval and Renaissance Revival of the period and jewellery by Jules and Louis Weis is keenly sought after today. Especially sought after are items with color - enamel and gems, which are especially beautiful.
There are a number of features in this bracelet that are like fingerprints in the work of Jules Wiese.
1. Looking at examples of Jules Wies's work, we see that the rare combination of silver and gold is a common, unspoken theme. Many items might have a silver mount with gold details or vice versa. The combination of metal with enamel raises the bar further and the presence of gems, puts items into the top strata of Wies jewelry.
2. The use of cabochon garnets as little punctuation highlights can be found in many pieces.
3. The particular form of the mounts can be seen in other Wiese bracelets - see 'photo from the book on Wiese by Silke Hellmuth.
