Antique late Victorian / Edwardian pendant necklace. Platinum, some yellow gold, diamonds, pearls, guilloche enamel. Origin unknown - see 'STORY' below. Made circa 1900.
Measurements:
Total weight is 10.2 grams. Chain extends 17inches (43cm). Length of pendant drop is slightly under 2 inches (4.75cm).
Description :
Fine platinum chain suspends a pendant drop that starts as a jeweled bow in milgrain platinum with the 'ribbon' of the bow extending in a line below. Tiny floral sections - like tulips or lily-of-the-valley, each set with a rose cut diamond. The ribbon of diamonds suspends an oval drop:
The drop is composed of concentric oval rings: an outer border of flowers, larger versions of the same floral motif as those of the 'bow', each set with a pair of rose-cut diamonds.
A ground of engine-turned, translucent guilloche enamel. The enamel over this is an exceptional shade of lavender - a light purple. See Story below for more information on this special and rare shade.
An inner border in the same design as those of the 'bow', identically set with diamonds.
Within the space created by the inner border is an articulated drop - a pair of diamond-set leaves ending in a pearl. Slightly smaller pearls are set on the outer border at apex and opposite side of pendant.
Platinum chain is typical of the early 1900's. Elongated, rounded ovals alternate with a trio of shorter, rounder links. Jump spring clasp.
Marks and Metal:
We found no marks. (see Story below). Metal was tested as platinum. Some supportive metal at the back is gold.
Condition:
Very good with negligible wear commensurate with age. Please see enlarged pictures and don't hesitate to ask questions which we will do our best to answer.
THE STORY:
When I first laid eyes on this necklace, I immediately started looking for a maker's mark. More specifically, I felt it just had to be Faberge or at least, a top French jeweler of the late 19th century such as Cartier. The quality of both the diamond and the enamel work as well as the overall design point me in that direction. Sadly, I found no mark, so I cannot by any stretch make a definitive attribution.
Beautiful guilloche enamel, especially if it is in good condition, is increasingly difficult to find. I looked through a few books for any possible further information and noticed that of all the guilloche enamel pieces illustrated, very few were in this particular shade of lavender. Yes, there are reds and blues, pinks and yellows, but lavender / light purple is very special. I've since learned that producing lavender enamel was technically far more difficult than other colors. Whatever the reason, the color, alongside the workmanship, is magnificent.
A little like emojis of today, the Victorians imbued many everyday items with symbolic alternative meanings. Every flower had its association and every educated Victorian would be familiar with the symbolic significance. Thus lilies of the valley alongside bows were associated with a return of happiness, innocent love and enduring affection.
The lucky new owner of this pendant necklace will have a jewel of outstanding qualities, both visually and sentimentally.
