Recognizing features of Georgian jewelry.
See previous posts on Georgian jewelry.
Alterations and Wear to Georgian Jewelry:
We have already chatted about the necessity sometimes, of fixing an old jewel in order to make it wearable.
A legitimate Georgian jewel may be re-polished, possibly some of the stones have been replaced and there may be restoration where metal has weakened and needed soldering. At 200 years, who wouldn't have some sort of fix-up work? Some Georgian jewelry would be altered to make it more wearable to a lady of a different era. This practice of recycling jewelry was popular through the Victorian and at least to the mid 20th century. Pieces in original condition are therefore all the more rare.
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#4195 |
This incredible handpainted enamel probably swivelled, but was turned into a brooch.
There are pointers to an authentic piece. The most obvious sign is wear on both the metal and the stones. Use a simple 10X loupe or magnifying glass to take a good look. Soft daylight is ideal. Facets and edges are rounded and softened. Any place that would rub against either the body or another metal, will be worn thinner than the rest of the piece. Natural materials, like coral or ivory will also show wear, maybe tiny holes, darkening of the material and the slow progress of patina, not to be confused with dirt. If daylight is not convenient, run your finger over edges – there should not be sharp edges.
#5278 coral bracelet 
Recently, I looked at the merchandise of a sweet old lady, supposedly specializing in Georgian and earlier jewels. The lovely ring she showed me look 'good' to my deteriorating eyes. Then, I examined it more closely with a simple magnifying glass: clearly the enamel was quite fresh. The edges of the gold work were sharp and crisp. Horror - a fake! Intended to fool. I can't believe this charming matronly lady did not know that the ring was younger in minutes to what she was claiming in years.
#5297 Look at the edges. Clearly Georgian in every way.
Advice on buying Georgian Jewelry:
Sometimes we can identify something not by what it has, but by what it has not.
Most jewelry of the Georgian era will not be signed or marked in any way. There are exceptions to this rule, for example the French did hallmark, even at that early time.
One day, I took some wonderful Georgian jewelry to a gem specialist to have him confirm that the stones were 'right'. When I came to pick it up, this nice fellow had done me a huge favor: he stamped it all with 20th century, 18k marks. I could have cried and to make matters worse, the lumbering oaf could not, would not, understand what he had done to upset me so much. Once again, we learn that dealing with the right people is paramount.
Georgian jewelry is often more subtle and understated than later pieces. When you look at a Georgian jewel, you might not immediately get the full sense of the piece. You may need to come closer, look longer to see and appreciate the wonderful detail and fineness. While colors are often bright and include strong contrasts, it's not glitzy blitzy that screams at you at once from a distance and then disappoints in its crudity. It's nice to know that what we are wearing is very special, has been worn and taken care of by generation after generation of women and enhances our appearance without demanding to take center stage.
We will write about the characteristics of Georgian jewelry and recognizing it in later posts.
Questions and comments: Please email antiques@brendaginsberg.com
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